Key Takeaways

• Cousins who go way back: Ed and Dar traveled the US together as kids (ages 8 and 10) on a month-long road trip from California to New York to Canada to Italy. Now both empty nesters, they reunited on the Olleh Trail.
• First impressions of Jeju: Dar expected the "Hawaii of Korea" but only saw tourists at the airport on her way out. Walking the trail, she experienced calm farmlands, coastal paths, and local villages instead.
• The restaurant with a bed: They stumbled into a tiny eatery where the owner's bed was next to the kitchen. No English, five items on the menu, ocean breeze, one of the best meals of the trip.
• Haenyeo sightings: Dar watched Haenyeo haggle with a buyer, saw them drive off on their trikes with orange floats, and visited the Haenyeo Museum (on a day it was actually open).
• Two trails in one day: When the Haenyeo Museum was closed on a Monday, they kept walking and finished trails 20 and 21 in a single day, using phone flashlights to find the final stamp station after dark.
• Udo lighthouse museum: They took the ferry to Udo and hiked up to a lighthouse museum with scale models of lighthouses from around the world. Few tourists because no bus access.
• Dog walking volunteer outing: Ed, Dar, Sora, and Jaden walked rescue dogs at a local shelter, an experience Dar found meaningful even as a non-dog person.
• Packing tip: Dar flew from California with no checked bag. Waterproof jacket, pants, and shoes got her through rainy days just fine.

Next Steps

• Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/trip
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Key Takeaways

• Writer Noh Hee-kyung: Known for warm, healing, family-focused dramas rather than typical romantic comedies. Some Koreans criticize her for being "preachy," but her ensemble slice-of-life style is harder to write and resonates deeply.
• Lee Byong-hun's character: A truck vendor who drives around selling pots, pans, and goods. Short-tempered, kind-hearted, carrying trauma from being the child of a mistress. His sales pitch recordings ("fry pan, fry pan") and his mannequin-modeling of ajumma clothes are comedic highlights.
• Depression storyline (Shin Mina's character): Used imagery of drowning and suffocation. The character attempts suicide by jumping off a jetty; Haenyeos rescue her. Five years ago in Korea, people couldn't openly discuss depression without stigma. Now conversations are more common. Ed admits he used to make fun of depressed people when he was younger. Sora shares she had a period of depression during grad school during the pandemic.
• 기러기 아빠 (Kirogi Appa, "Wild Goose Father"): The phenomenon where fathers work in Korea while mothers and children live abroad (often in the US) for education. The fact that Korean has a specific word for this shows how common it was. Sora's corporate boss was a Kirogi Appa who avoided going home because no one was there.
• Down syndrome representation: An actress with Down syndrome played a character with Down syndrome. Koreans were surprised and impressed. The handsome boat captain (Kim Woo-bin) apologizes for his shocked reaction: "I've never seen anyone with Down syndrome. I never learned what to do. If you feel uncomfortable, I'm sorry." Ed: "Hats off to the producers for being so inclusive."
• Teenage pregnancy: Two high school students, both top of their class (she was #1, he was #2), get pregnant. She wanted to escape to Seoul because "everyone knows each other and it's choking me." The small-town gossip culture: "In small towns, they know how many spoons and chopsticks you have at home."
• Mainlander Haenyeo: A young Haenyeo from the mainland struggles to be accepted by the cooperative. Sora: "Now I am in that process... I know it would be really difficult to get in as an outsider, as someone who is not from Jeju, also not from that village specifically."
• Small-town trade-off: Young people from Seoul move to Jeju for community and connection. But if the connection gets too deep, they pull back. Ed: "If I move to Jeju, I'm gonna purposely keep this 외국인 (foreigner) persona... 'You're in my business? I don't speak Korean now.'"

Next Steps

• K-drama shooting locations: vamosajeju.com/trip (Our Blues was filmed all over the island)
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Ed negotiates a discount for listeners (starting at 50%, ending at... 70%?), and then they revisit their most popular clips from the past year.

Topics include the controversial stereotype about Jeju men, why "Olleh" means what it means, tangerine-picking etiquette, speed traps on coastal roads, the new K.ride taxi app for foreigners, and flying cheap from Gimpo to Jeju.

Key Takeaways

• Sora's Haenyeo Retreat: September 10-12, three days/two nights. Full day with Haenyeo at their village, interview sessions (Sora translates), seafood BBQ at the 불턱 (bulteok, traditional outdoor community center), Haenyeo theater performance, temple lunch with a monk, yoga and meditation. Two spots left. Listener discount available at vamosajeju.com/sora (redirects to jejuslowly.com).
• Most popular clip #1: Jeju men stereotype: From Episode 4. Sora was uncomfortable discussing the historical stereotype that Jeju men were lazy while Haenyeo women did the work. "젠더 감수성 (gender sensitivity)" is a big deal in Korea. She clarifies: "This is the stereotype for Jeju men in the past. These days in modern society, if they do this, they won't be able to get married."
• Most popular clip #2: What does "Olleh" mean?: From the Olleh Trail episode. Short clip, huge engagement. Ed: "I stopped trying to guess why."
• Most popular clip #3: Don't go to jail for an orange: Sora's title. Tangerine-picking is popular with city visitors, less so with Ed's family ("We picked blueberries and apples when they were kids").
• Speed traps: Ed dreads them. Sora's tip: Take the mountain roads instead of coastal roads to avoid speed cameras and traffic lights.
• K.ride app: New Kakao Taxi app for foreigners. Same service, no Korean phone number required.
• Flying to Jeju: Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday late-night flights are cheapest (around $20-25 USD). Incheon to Jeju direct flights now exist but are limited (one or two per week) and more expensive ($90 USD). Gimpo to Jeju is still easier, faster, and more frequent ("like taking a bus").
• Podcast origin story: Ed was in Oaxaca pitching a polyglot podcast idea. Sora already had a website called Vamos a Jeju. Ed: "You tricked me." Sora: "No, we were talking, talking, talking, and then Jeju..."

Clip Library

All clips organized by category at vamosajeju.com/clip: Foodie Culture, Jeju History, DIY Traveling Tips, Getting Around Jeju, Outdoor Jeju, and more!

Next Steps

• Sora's Haenyeo Retreat: vamosajeju.com/sora
• Clip library: vamosajeju.com/clip
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Key Takeaways

• Korea origin story: COVID isolation + Netflix algorithm = 100 Days My Prince. Holly became obsessed with hanbok colors, gat hats, bead meanings, and Korean history she never learned in American schools. "I feel like I come home. It's the strangest thing."
• Jeju origin story: Met five solo-traveling women on her first Korea trip. Their top priority was Jeju. Plus Korean dating shows film there. Plus Rain's motorcycle ride through canola fields.
• Creative inspiration: Bought four journals, filled them all. "It feels very spiritual to me sometimes when I'm there... it just blooms stories in my head." She's clairvoyant and sees things in the forests, then looks them up and finds they match local spirits.
• Rainy Jeju: Couldn't see the crater at Sangumburi, couldn't see Biyangdo from Hyeopjae Beach. But the fog forced attention to what was close: moss-covered trees, the path itself. "When you couldn't see further, you had to pay attention to what was close."
• Travels without husband: He's 6'5" and needs to know every detail in advance. She wants to give up control and say "Where are we going? Oh my god, that's amazing!" Different travel styles = separate trips.
• Burial mounds on Olleh trails: Ed mentioned walking through family cemeteries. Sora: "For us it's normal. We go there and say hello, give some food or alcohol." Holly found it peaceful, not creepy.
• Reverse culture shock: Coming home is harder than jet lag. Her family tells her to shut up about Korea. She plans trips 8-9 months ahead, saves so there's no bill when she returns.
• Olleh Trail tour idea: Ed and Sora discussed leading a walking tour. Sora: "If you don't get paid, it's not illegal." Holly volunteered to be the "spiritual guide."
• Haenyeo helper system: Sora explained visitors can help carry 20-30kg seaweed baskets. Holly: "That's heavy."

Lightning Round

• Favorite food: Bulgogi, fresh seafood, 김치찌개 (kimchi jjigae), and 소맥 (somaek)
• Favorite place: Udo and 주상절리 (Jusangjeolli, hexagonal basalt cliffs) — "It looked like you were in space"
• Favorite memory: Laughing with friends over beer after a full day. "Just being able to be in the moment without a worry."

Next Steps

• Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

Key Takeaways

• How Kylie became Haenyeo: Attended Hansupul Haenyeo school in 2018 after a shamanism class instructor invited her. Her scuba instructor husband then found a village accepting young divers. Yongnangni initially said no to a foreigner, then called back a month later: "Come tomorrow for an interview." The older women didn't understand why a college graduate would do this, but after months of diving, they accepted her.
• Language exchange romance: Kylie met her husband at Seogwipo language exchange in 2018. Seven couples from that group got married. "Nobody had an intention to study."
• Yongnangni Village: Southwest Jeju, six young divers (rare for any village), very welcoming. The 삼촌 (samchon, elder divers) give her 25 onions or huge containers of kimchi randomly. "They have very kind and open hearts."
• Diving schedule: 물때 (Multae) = water cycle, about two weeks. Eight possible diving days per cycle. Only dive October to May (소라/conch season). Summer is sea urchin season but their sea urchins are too small. Must do 바다지킴이 (padajikimi, ocean protection) in summer, yelling at people illegally harvesting.
• Current export crisis: 70% of conch exports to Japan. The boat was sold with no backup, so January had no diving. Diving days shortened until resolved.
• Haenyeo Hangout podcast: Kylie co-hosts with JY (Korean-English translator) to share Haenyeo life in English. "I don't want people to think Haenyeo are these mysterious goddess things. We're all regular people."
• Hardest part of diving: "Everything looks like a rock." Dark ocean, dark stones, dark conch, dark sea urchins. The experienced Haenyeo don't see better; they know from experience where things are.
• Practical Jeju tips from Kylie: Get international driver's license for car rental. Bus routes can have one bus per day. Jeju is bigger than people think; plan ample travel time. Parking in Jeju City is painful.
• Reverse culture shock: Jinju people stared at foreigners constantly. Jeju natives are unfazed. "Yeah, OK. Go this way."

Lightning Round

• Favorite food: 방어회 (Bongeo-hoe) — amberjack/yellowtail sashimi
• Favorite place: Coastal road between Moseulpo and Gosan — best sunsets, most dolphins
• Favorite memory: First time seeing dolphins in the water (scary and exciting), and getting married (exciting, less scary)

Next Steps

• Check out Kylie's podcast: Haenyeo Hangout
• Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

He reveals why he homeschooled his kids and took them on 5-month trips across America and Asia, why he walks for hours to "hack his brain," and how he managed to wrangle his temper so that, despite being a mosaic with cracked pieces, he thinks he's "still good enough" for the people whom he loves.

Key Takeaways

• Career path: Soldier (mandatory in Singapore) → journalist → dive magazine founder → Microsoft contractor → financial independence → "retired" but helping friends worldwide (Thailand underwater docs, Vietnam cycling tourism, Vamos a Jeju)
• Homeschooling: Ed and Michele pulled their kids out of traditional school. Two major trips: 5-month RV across America (sea to shining sea), then 5-month Asia trip including Mongolia. Kids had to create their own YouTube videos as curriculum.
• Slow travel philosophy: Stay 3-4 weeks minimum per place; make real friends; better value (Airbnb monthly discounts, fewer flights). "Travel hacking" with credit card points for flights.
• Frugal vs. cheap: "We're not cheap with others, we're frugal with ourselves." Ed stayed in a hotel with cockroaches when alone. With friends, he tries to pay.
• "Reverse empty nesters": Instead of kids leaving, Ed and Michele leave. When they return, the kids actually want to spend time with them.
• 청개구리 (Cheong-gaeguri): "Green frog" = Korean term for contrarian/rebellious person. Ed avoided Camino de Santiago because too many people told him to do it. "I never lost myself, so I don't need to find myself."
• Anger and change: Ed's "seething rage" in his 20s-30s terrified his young daughter and nearly ended his marriage. Michele's ultimatum was the wake-up call. He realized he'd become his father despite promising himself he wouldn't.
• Walking meditation: Ed's method was partitioning two selves, giving energy to the one he wants to be, having honest self-talk during walks. After 15 years, "the angry part has become smaller and weaker."
• "Mosaic": Ed describes himself as a mosaic with chipped and cracked pieces, but "still good enough to look at."
• Paying it forward: Ed helps younger people because mentors took chances on him (one Dutch guy gave him his Microsoft opportunity). "Vamos a Jeju is Sora's brainchild. I'm just the assistant."
• Future plans: Joint Olleh Trail program on JejuSlowly.com; possibly one-week Olleh itinerary with Ed as unpaid guide.

Next Steps

• Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/trip
• Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask
• Sora's tours: jejuslowly.com or vamosajeju.com/sora

Key Takeaways

• North Korea: South Koreans rarely think about it. "We're too busy with competition here." Sora's mother's sister went to North Korea and never returned.
• 소개팅 (Sogaeting): Not "blind" — you exchange photos, school, job, salary, MBTI beforehand. Large matchmaking companies assign you a "score" based on education, income, and parents' wealth. You're matched with similar scores.
• 속도위반 (Sogdowiban): "Shotgun wedding" in Korean. Literally "speeding violation" — you went too fast.
• Marriage customs: Proposals aren't surprises; couples reach consensus first. Women never change surnames. Old preference for sons has flipped: "If you have a daughter, you get an airplane. If you have a son, you get a car."
• Birth rate: Korea's was 0.78 recently. Sora doesn't plan to have children due to climate change and societal competition.
• Education: ~60% attend university. SKY (Seoul, Korea, Yonsei) = Ivy League equivalent. Some kindergartens prep kids for US Ivy League. Parents yelling at cops about ruining their child's "medical career" is real.
• Tour horror story: A guest yelled at Sora: "Do you mean my son who went to Seoul University law school did something wrong?" over a plane seat mix-up.
• Sora's new business: jejuslowly.com — Haenyeo experiences, wellness (yoga, temple, meditation), 2-night/3-day slow tours. Won Korean Tourism Organization award. Podcast listeners get a discount.

Next Steps

• Sora's tours: jejuslowly.com (or vamosajeju.com/sora)
• Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/trip
• Voice questions: vamosajeju.com/ask
• Next episode: Sora interviews Ed

Key Takeaways

• 한란 (Hallan): "Hal" from Hallasan + "lan" meaning orchid. Winter orchid of Hallasan that survives harsh conditions, symbolizing hope.
• April 3rd Incident (4·3 사건, Sasam) historical context:
  • 1910-1945: Korea under Japanese colonial rule (35 years)
  • 1945: Japan surrenders after atomic bombs; Korea "independent" but occupied by US in south, Soviet Union in north
  • March 1, 1947: Peaceful parade in Jeju (commemorating 1919 independence protests); police killed a baby accidentally sparking a riot and more dead
  • Island-wide strike followed, including Haenyeo
  • US Army investigated and concluded Jeju was a "Red Island" (communist)
  • April 3, 1948: Guerrillas attacked police stations and government buildings at night; war begins
  • 1948-1954: Seven years of killing; anyone 5km from the coast considered a guerrilla and shot on sight; scorched earth policy burned mid-mountain villages
  • ~30,000 people killed (government figure)
• The movie's message: No one was purely good or bad. Government soldiers committed atrocities. Guerrillas also killed innocent villagers. American forces were complicit (asking "how many?" with quotas). Even the Christian soldier who tried to maintain morality eventually snapped, killed his squad, and took his own life.
• Key scenes:
  • Opening: Bodies tied to trees with warning signs
  • Mother searching for husband who was killed by guerrillas for suspected spying
  • Lava caves as hiding places; army set fires to smoke people out (Tarangshwi cave)
  • White flags of surrender ignored; Jeju-speaking soldier killed by mainland commander for being "too friendly"
  • Shimbang (Jeju shaman) blessing those leaving to surrender, tying white mourning cloths knowing they would die
  • Trial scene: 6-year-old girl stamped as "rioter" (death sentence)
  • Modern scenes cut to Jeju Airport and Peace Memorial, both sites of massacres
• Why Jeju people are exclusive: Sora says the common answer is historical trauma. "Lots of people from outside, outsiders, tried to invade and attack these people." Suspicion applies not just to foreigners (외국인) but also mainlanders (육지 사람).
• Peace Memorial Park: Memorials organized by village; ~30,000 names. Includes room dedicated to those killed in cave massacres. Shoes memorial at Sotal Oreum: people threw shoes from trucks so families could follow and find their bodies; children's shoes among them.

Next Steps

• Learn more: vamosajeju.com/43
• Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip (includes April 3rd sites: Peace Memorial Park, Altteureu Airfield, Sotal Oreum)
• Send voice questions: vamosajeju.com/ask (90 seconds max)

Key Takeaways

• 폭싹 속았수다 (Poksak Sokassuda): Jeju dialect meaning something like "수고하셨습니다" or "고생하셨습니다" (thank you for your hard work, we suffered through this together).
• 양관식 신드롬 (Yang Gwanshik Syndrome): SNL Korea did a parody about Korean men who think they're like Gwanshik and try to emulate his behavior. Based on a real trend of men using K-drama characters as role models.
• Generational trauma reflected in the show:
  • Two separate tables at family meals (men/elders vs. women), with women getting lower quality food/leftovers
  • Sora: "I did the same thing. When we went to my grandpa's house, we always had two different tables for women and for men and elders."
• Three generations of women: The show traces Jeju and Korean history through grandmother Kwangne (Haenyeo who died young), mother Aesun (IU's mother), and daughter Geummyeong (IU). Jeju women had "double discrimination": housework, raising children, AND making money (unlike mainland where men worked and women stayed home).
• Power dynamics in Korean families:
  • 고부갈등 (gobu-galdeung): mother-in-law vs. daughter-in-law conflict, a recurring K-drama trope that reflects reality
  • Parents with sons have more power than parents with daughters
  • Son-in-law visits: family prepares a feast. Daughter-in-law visits: she does the work.
  • Ed: "My daughter is precious to me and she is not in the world to be another person's servant."
• 황혼이혼 (Hwanghon Ihon): "Sunset divorce" or "dusk divorce." After children are raised and married, parents finally divorce. The rate has increased significantly in Korea.
• Why Gwanshik was rare in 1960s-70s: Confucian patriarchy from Joseon Dynasty; preference for boys over girls; women couldn't get education or work. Changed after 1980s-90s when women started working and getting educated.
• Sora's personal connection: Her father-in-law was "kind of this character" (Haksi), which triggered Jaden while watching. But Jaden "chose me over the family, chose over the parents," like Gwanshik did.
• Why it went global: Common themes across cultures (family conflict, generational trauma, mother-in-law tension). IU's star power brought viewers in; story quality made them stay. Excellent English translation that captured emotional nuance rather than literal meaning.
• Loop of seasons: Every four episodes named after a season (spring, summer, autumn, winter). Korean saying: 봄 여름 가을 겨울 그리고 다시 봄 (spring, summer, fall, winter, and spring again). The loop of nature = the loop of life.
• The publisher at the end: Played by the same actress as Aesun's mother, says "Aesun, I'm so proud of you." Ed wonders if it was intentional symbolism (mother reincarnated) or just casting.

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• K-drama shooting locations: Episodes 27 and 28
• Send voice questions to vamosajeju.com/ask (90 seconds max)
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Key Takeaways

• The title's meaning: "힘을 내" (Himelne) is an imperative meaning "be strong" or "push on," spoken by others. The director chose "힘을 낼 시간" (Time to Be Strong) because it gives agency to the person suffering, letting them decide when they're ready. The film was sponsored by the Korean Human Rights Committee.
• The trainee debt trap: Trainees sign contracts where training costs (singing, dancing, housing, food) are deducted from future profits after debut. If you never debut, you owe all of it. You exit with debt, no savings, no professional network, and potentially mental health issues.
• Competition odds: 10,000 to 1 just to become a registered trainee at a big agency. Of those who become trainees, many never debut. Of those who debut, many don't succeed.
• Contract restrictions: Trainees cannot work other jobs during training (so no savings). Some contracts prohibit dating; violations can trigger breach of contract penalties.
• 열정 pay (Yeoljong pay): "Passion pay," meaning accepting minimum wage because you're doing what you love. Sora experienced this at her first travel agency job.
• The characters:
  • Soo-min (oldest, female): Carries the burden for the group; developed eating disorder from trainee pressure; constantly worried about the youngest following in the footsteps of a member who took her own life
  • Sarang (youngest, female): Anger issues, depression, gets into a fight that costs them their travel money
  • Tae-hee (middle, male): Owes significant debt from failed training
  • The fan (So-yoon): Works at bus company lost and found; helps them heal; unusual because she breaks Korean social boundaries directly. BTS ARMY mentioned as example of fans trying to change toxic fan culture.
• Power dynamics: Once the failed idols were recognized during a fight, the dynamic flipped completely. They had to apologize, pay compensation, and beg people not to call police or post videos. Being a celebrity in Korea can feel like a liability.
• Lee Sun-kyun case: Actor who took his own life after a drug/affair scandal. Ed notes that in Hollywood this would barely register, but Korean witch-hunting culture and moral expectations for celebrities made it unbearable.
• 장녀 (Jangnyeo): Oldest daughter in Korean families; trained to organize, care for others, read the room. Sora identifies with Soo-min because of this.
• Jeju as healing: Despite the heavy subject matter, Jeju provides the backdrop for processing grief. The film ends optimistically with the characters leaving their biggest pains behind.
• Sora's personal connection: Her former Sonbae (senior colleague) from her first job also took his own life at age 30-something due to depression and pressure to meet others' expectations.

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Key Takeaways

• Gabjil (갑질): Abuse of power by those in authority; the protagonist Cho Samdal was falsely accused of this by her assistant (Hubei) who wanted to take her position and boyfriend
• Sonbei-Hubei (선배-후배): Senior-junior hierarchy in Korean workplaces and schools; no direct English translation, increasingly used as-is in English
• Witch hunting (마녀사냥, manyeo-sanyang): Korean online phenomenon of piling on and attacking individuals, similar to cancel culture; people send hate comments, threatening letters, and try to destroy careers
• Neutral gear (뉴트럴 기어): New Korean slang meaning "I'll delay my judgment" rather than pile on immediately; a small cultural shift
• Jeju as safe harbor: Theme in the show where characters flee Seoul's toxicity for their hometown; Sora relates to this even though she wasn't born in Jeju, she and Jaden "found their home" there
• Han (한): Deep, long-lasting sorrow in Korean culture; explains why Yongpil's father held onto grief/hatred for 20+ years after losing his love
• Samchon (삼촌) in Jeju: Unlike mainland Korean where it means "uncle" (father's brother), in Jeju dialect it's used for any respected elder regardless of gender; Sora calls her female Haenyeo teachers "Samchon"
• Jeju language vs. dialect: Linguists consider Jeju language a separate language from Korean, not just a dialect
• Realistic vs. unrealistic elements: The Haenyeo diving scenes used expensive scuba goggles instead of traditional ones; Yongpil's rebellious behavior in a government job would be "not possible" in real Korean civil service
• Ed's street smart vs. book smart backstory: He was ranked near the bottom in 1970s Singapore schools and got caned by his parents; this made him careful not to judge others
• Sora's confession: She was good at tests and ranked high, which may explain why judging comes automatically to her; she catches herself doing it and has to consciously stop
• Trip Planner now has 100+ users

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju.
• Next episode: Time to Be Strong (힘을 낼 시간), a movie about failed K-pop idols healing in Jeju

Key Takeaways

• Ed's note on "foreigner" (외국인): literal translation from Korean/Chinese but carries an outsider connotation in English; Koreans use it neutrally but visitors may prefer "traveler" or "tourist"
• West Coast locations:
  • Dolphin spotting area / rock pools (tide pools, Jeju dialect: 도구리알): When Life Gives You Tangerines Episode 10 fight scene between Eunmyeong and Hyunsook; also sunset coastal area
  • Hallim Port: When Life Gives You Tangerines scene where Ae-soon picks up Eunmyeong; ferry to Biyangdo (15 min); fish market for cheap raw fish
  • Geumneung area: Our Blues handsome boat captain's RV/camper location with view of Biyangdo; entire Hallim-Geumneung area is Our Blues territory
  • Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road: Our Blues driving/wide shots; Welcome to Samdali
  • Note: Dodongri village in When Life Gives You Tangerines was actually filmed in Andong, not Jeju
• Southwest locations:
  • Songaksan Dulle-gil: When Life Gives You Tangerines biking scene; Olleh Trail 10; WWII kamikaze boat caves at base
  • Gapado Island: Our Blues couple's first trip; Welcome to Samdali (Yongpil tying Samdal's shoelaces); Olleh Trail 10-1; green barley (청보리) festival in April; 30-min ferry from Moseulpo; day trip or pension overnight; most visitors are Korean
  • Gunsan Oreum: When Life Gives You Tangerines drone shot of Ae-soon and Kwan-sik with flowers; can drive to the top
  • Sanbangsan area: Time to be Strong temple bell scene and small amusement park
• South Coast locations:
  • Seogwipo KAL Hotel: When Life Gives You Tangerines Episode 15 outdoor wedding scene with ocean view and Munseom/Saepseom/Beomseom islands; near Jeongbang Waterfall
  • Saeyeongyo Bridge to Saeseom Island: Extraordinary Attorney Woo couple scenes; Ed's continuity complaint about the convenience store that doesn't exist on the island; bridge lights up at night; romantic walk spot; near Cheonjiyeon Waterfall; fishing boats leave at dusk with lights
  • Beopwanpo: Welcome to Samdali CEO/secretary scene; beautiful Olleh trail section worth walking even if not doing full trail
• Real-life update: the "handsome boat captain" (Kim Woo-bin) and "depression girl" (Shin Min-a) from Our Blues got married this year; he recovered from cancer
• Organize trips by region, not by drama

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju
• Share the show!

• Why Jeju features so prominently in K-dramas: domestic vacation destination for Koreans; volcanic landscapes and coastal scenery; cheaper and faster than Hawaii; no passport required; recent shift from "vacation destination in dramas" to "dramas about life in Jeju" starting with Our Blues

• Jeju City / Central locations:
  • Jeju Mokgwana (제주목관아): government office that looks like a small palace; When Life Gives You Tangerines writing competition scene; ~2,000 won admission
  • Dodubong Oreum + Rainbow Coastal Road: Welcome to Samdali young couple scenes; plane spotting; "Kisses Zone" photo spot under tree shaped like Hershey's Kiss
  • Oradong Maemilbat (buckwheat field): When Life Gives You Tangerines final episode with Ae-soon and Kwan-sik; blooms May-June and September-October
  • Crash Landing on You forest scenes shot in Jeju (can't film in actual North Korea)

• East Coast locations:
  • Seongsan Ilchulbong area: temple where Ae-soon did 3,000 bows for a baby boy; hydrangea in June-July; Seopjikoji (Boys Over Flowers); Seongsan-Goseong 5-Day Market (Our Blues fish vendor scenes, open on dates ending 2 and 7)
  • Ojo Port: Welcome to Samdali poster location; second floor was built as a set and removed after filming
  • Gwangchigi Beach: Welcome to Samdali; Running Man; Legend of the Blue Sea
  • Maze Land: Running Man; Legend of the Blue Sea; Boys Over Flowers; now has cat café
  • Gimnyeong Beach: When Life Gives You Tangerines young Ae-soon waiting for her mother; near windmill cafés
  • Hado and Jongdal alleys: When Life Gives You Tangerines maemilmuk and chapssaltteok selling scenes
  • Stone Culture Park (Jeju Stone Park): young Ae-soon running by stone walls
  • Sehwa Haenyeo House (Modern Pulteo): Welcome to Samdali haenyeo location
  • Big tree in Pyeongdae: Welcome to Samdali gathering spot; paengnamu trees are sacred village guardians (당산나무)
  • Saryeoni Forest (cypress forest): Welcome to Samdali wedding photo scene; popular for actual wedding photos
• Plan by region, not by drama, to avoid "making 100 circles around Jeju"

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju
• Share the show!
• Leave a one-sentence review to help others discover the show

This episode covers the hearty, unglamorous Korean foods that locals turn to when they need warmth, stress relief, or a cure for last night's soju.

Ed and Sora walk through the practical challenges of ordering at real Korean restaurants (no English menus, no English speakers, intimidating pace) and share tactics for navigating them.

They cover sundubu (spicy soft tofu stew), haejangguk (hangover soup), kimchi jjigae, doenjang jjigae, baekban (home-style meal sets), and Jeju's own gogi-guksu.

They also explore why Koreans reach for crazy-spicy food when stressed, and how temporarily replacing emotional pain with physical pain might actually work.

Key Takeaways

• Comfort food restaurants are intimidating for visitors: all-Korean menus, no English, fast pace, not Instagrammable; but they're cheap, delicious, and worth the effort
• Finding comfort food: search Korean terms on KakaoMap or NaverMap; check photos for menus before arriving; use Google Translate or AI on menu photos
• Ordering tactic: order the first item on the menu (it's usually the specialty); use numbers and gestures ("이거 둘 주세요" or just "this one, two please")
• Self vs. Service: "Self" (셀프) means self-service (help yourself to banchan); "Service" (서비스) means a freebie/comp from the owner
• Sundubu (순두부): spicy soft tofu stew; Ilpoom Sundubu (일품순두부) is a popular chain with locations across Jeju offering unlimited banchan buffets (10,000-12,000 won); the Oedo branch has 30+ side dishes including soy sauce crab, fried chicken, tteokbokki
• Nurungji becomes sungnyung: the burnt rice at the bottom of the stone pot becomes a palate-cleansing soup when you add hot water and let it steep while eating
• Haejangguk (해장국): "hangover soup" with variations including beef, bean sprout, pollack, intestine, or blood block (seonji); eaten any time, not just after drinking; popular with ajusshi crowd
• Other staples: kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), baekban (home-style meal sets with rice, soup, and banchan)
• Jeju specialty: gogi-guksu (고기국수), pork noodle soup made from pork meat broth (not bone broth like Japanese ramen); there's a whole street for it near the Jeju Folklore & Natural History Museum
• Stress eating Korean-style: Koreans eat crazy-spicy food when stressed (dakbal, buldak bokkeum myeon, tteokbokki); the theory is that physical pain temporarily overwhelms emotional pain

Next Steps

• Blog post: vamosajeju.com/comfort
• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju
• Share the show!

Key Takeaways

• What the Trip Planner does:
  • 50+ activities to browse and add to a wishlist
  • Organize activities across 1-5 day itineraries with time slots
  • Warns you if activities are in opposite regions (east vs. west) to avoid wasting time driving around Hallasan
  • Flags seasonal activities (cherry blossoms in April, tangerine picking Nov-Jan) if they don't match your travel month
  • Sends your completed itinerary to your email with KakaoMap links and additional info for each activity
  • Helps visualize where activities are clustered so you can decide where to book hotels
• What the Trip Planner does NOT do:
  • Not a booking service
  • Not based on crowd-sourced reviews; activities are curated based on Ed and Sora's personal experience
  • Does not include every possible option in a category (e.g., not every green tea farm in Jeju, just the ones they've been to)
• Who it's for:
  • DIY travelers who need to research and plan independently
  • Tour participants who want to compare what tour companies offer against what they actually want to do
• Access: vamosajeju.com/trip

Next Steps

• Try the Trip Planner at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

Key Takeaways

• Slow travel is about depth over breadth: stay longer, see fewer places, meet more people
• No-kill dog shelter volunteering: contact jeju.now on Instagram or email soraya@vamosajeju.com to arrange
• Temple stays: four temples in Jeju offer overnight stays; two program types (full itinerary with 4am wake-up vs. relaxed rest); food is vegetarian and bland (no garlic or strong herbs); book at the national temple stay website; vamosajeju.com/temple
• Haenyeo experiences: shallow-water diving with a haenyeo guide (wetsuit, basket, catch pre-planted seafood); Woman Divers Kitchen offers a media art dinner or a theatrical play based on an 89-year-old haenyeo's life story, followed by Q&A
• Plane spotting: Dodubong Oreum for distant views; Granada Cafe rooftop for runway shots; spots along Rainbow Coastal Road and near the runway approach lights for planes flying directly overhead (bring earplugs); rental car required for the best spots

Final Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

• 쌤 (ssaem) = shortened from 선생님 (seonsaengnim), meaning teacher
• 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) = thank you (formal); trick: "come some eat up"
• 고마워요 (gomawoyo) = thank you (casual); 고마워 (gomawo) = even more casual
• 안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo) = hello; trick: "onion on sale"
• Pro tip: mumble and bow — Koreans will appreciate the effort

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who needs a reason to visit Jeju

These are all designed with the same principles: not too long, not too steep, interesting throughout, and easy to bail out of when needed.

Key Takeaways

• Coastal headlands: Seopjikoji (east coast, flat, canola flowers March-May, views of Seongsan); Songaksan (southwest, loop trail, K-drama filming location for When Life Gives You Tangerines)
• Windmill walks: Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road (west coast, 30-60 minutes depending on route, raised platform over water); Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (east coast, Camel Coffee starting point, Woljeong and Gimnyeong beaches, snorkeling in summer)
• Historical hikes: Sumbisori Gil from Haenyeo Museum through farmlands to Hado and Byeolbangjin fortress (2 hours full loop; take bus one way to halve it); Altereu Airfield (WWII Japanese hangars among garlic and radish fields, connects to Seodal Memorial and April 3rd massacre site; dark tourism, requires car)
• Tea plantation: Osulloc (walk past the crowded cafe into the plantation itself; biggest in Jeju; rows of tea as far as you want to walk)
• Waterfalls: Jeongbang (only waterfall in Korea that flows directly into the sea); Sojeongbang (small Jeongbang; peaceful, fewer crowds); both connect to Lee Jung-Seop Street walk; art gallery and Sora's House (shell museum) nearby
• Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Leave a review and let us know which hike you tried

This episode breaks down everything visitors need to know about climbing Hallasan, from the two summit trails (Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak) to the two partial trails (Eorimok and Yeongsil) for those who want the experience without the full commitment.

Ed shares his hard-won lessons about wet rocks, knee braces, and the humiliation of being passed by children and seniors on the descent, while Sora reveals she climbed to the summit solo on a snowy November day and made friends along the way.

Key Takeaways

• Hallasan is the tallest mountain in South Korea (1,947m) and a bucket-list climb for Koreans; about 900,000 people climb annually
• Two summit trails (reservation required): Gwaneumsa (north, shorter but steeper, many rock stairs) and Seongpanak (east, longer but gentler, more forest); 1,500 spots per day total (1,000 Seongpanak, 500 Gwaneumsa)
• Book on the 1st of the month for the following month; weekdays are easier for visitors since Koreans tend to book weekends
• Recommended strategy: climb up Gwaneumsa (steep but faster), descend via Seongpanak (longer but easier on knees); you must start from your registered trailhead but can descend either way
• Time cutoffs: must pass checkpoints by certain times (varies by season, roughly 11:30am-12:30pm for checkpoints, 1-2pm to leave summit); start by 7am at the latest, 5am is better
• Two partial trails (no reservation): Eorimok (longer, wooden decks, famous for autumn foliage at Eorimok Gyegok) and Yeongsil (shorter, steeper, famous for 500 rock formations called the "500 sons of the goddess"); both meet at Witsaeoreum
• No convenience stores in the park; bring all food and water; bathroom water is not confirmed potable
• Koreans bring thermos flasks to make ramyeon at rest stops; at altitude, water boils at a lower temperature so noodles don't fully cook (this is apparently the point)
• Gear: hiking poles, knee braces (especially for descent), crampons in winter; wet volcanic rock stairs on Gwaneumsa are treacherous
• Bus 240 connects Jeju City to Eorimok, Yeongsil, and Jungmun (once per hour), but plan a 30 minute hike from the bus stop to the trailheads
• Koreans are friendlier on hiking trails; strangers share snacks and encouragement (파이팅!)

Next Steps

• Blog post: vamosajeju.com/climb
• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju
• Share the show with a friend!

Key Takeaways

• Anju (안주) literally means "hold down the alcohol"; refers to food paired with drinks, but also the cultural practice of eating while drinking
• Dry anju (dried squid, fish jerky, nuts, chips) is common for beer, especially at convenience stores or during sam-cha (third round)
• Soju pairs with spicy and salty foods: samgyeopsal, dakbal (spicy chicken feet), jokbal (pig feet), bossam; the spice is "washed off" with soju
• Makgeolli pairs with jeon (Korean pancakes) and kimchi-tofu
• Beer pairs with chicken (chi-maek) or pizza (pi-maek)
• Anju can be anything: pizza, cheese platter with wine, stew with soju; if you drink alcohol with food, that food is anju
• Korean drinking culture involves rounds: il-cha (first round, real meal like samgyeopsal), i-cha (second round, maybe chicken and beer), sam-cha (third round, dried anju to extend hangout time)
• Nunchi drives the round system: you don't monopolize one table for hours; you move to give the restaurant space
• Third-place culture: small apartments mean Koreans socialize outside the home
• Hoesik (company dinners) often feature "safe" anju like samgyeopsal that everyone likes
• Jeju anju leans toward fresh seafood with soju; beachside pocha (pop-up bars) serve raw seafood at night
• Hunting pocha: bars in Seoul (Hongdae, Itaewon) where groups of young people meet other groups; age-restricted (under 30)
• Banju: eating a regular meal with alcohol simultaneously (common among Jeju farmers and fishermen)
• Sora's favorites: fish cake soup with soju, kimchi-jeon with makgeolli, dried squid with beer

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju
• Share the show!

This episode covers both Western-style chains (McDonald's, Burger King, Lotteria, KFC, Subway, Mom's Touch) and Korean bunsik classics (tteokbokki, kimbap, twigim, sundae, omuk).

Along the way, they explore why Koreans prefer restaurants with one menu item (specialization = quality), why too much choice is overwhelming, and why the real Korean fast food might just be the 24-hour convenience store.

Key Takeaways

• Western chains in Korea: McDonald's has a "Taste of Korea" series with regional limited-edition burgers (garlic from Changnyeong, green onion from Jindo, etc.); Lotteria is a Korean chain with creative limited menus (Culinary Class Wars collaboration, black squid burger, kalbi burger); Mom's Touch is popular near schools
• Korean fried chicken chains (Goobne, Kyochon, BHC) are considered far superior to KFC; they offer many variations (cheese powder, sauces) and serve beer; open afternoon to late night as anju spots, not lunch places
• Subway exists but ordering is stressful for Koreans; too many choices is a minus, not a plus; Koreans follow Instagram guides for "perfect orders"
• Korean pizza has many toppings (potato, bulgogi, sweet potato, steak); 반반 (banban) pizza lets you get two flavors on one pie; Pizza Alvolo is Sora's favorite chain
• Korean bunsik (snack shops near schools): tteokbokki (rice cakes in sweet-spicy sauce), kimbap (rice rolls), twigim (battered deep-fried items like mandu, vegetables, glass noodle rolls), omuk-gochi (fish cake skewers in free broth), sundae (blood sausage with glass noodles, not ice cream)
• Tteok-twi-sun: a combo set of tteokbokki + twigim + sundae
• Convenience stores (pyeonuijeom) are the "real" Korean fast food: triangle kimbap, regular kimbap, dosirak (lunchbox), cup ramyeon; open 24 hours, everywhere, DIY meal hacks on Instagram
• Isaac Toast (이삭토스트): popular Korean street toast chain with grilled sandwiches filled with cabbage, egg, and sweet-salty sauces; found near schools and universities

Next Steps

• Blog post: vamosajeju.com/fast
• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju
• Share the show!

Key Takeaways

• How it works: select meat from the refrigerated case on the ground floor, weigh and pay at the counter, then go upstairs to the restaurant where staff set up the grill; table setting fee is around 3,000 won (~$2) per person and includes lettuce wraps, sauces, and side dishes
• Common pork cuts: 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal, three-layer pork belly), 오겹살 (ogyeopsal, five-layer with skin), 목살 (moksal, pork neck with less fat)
• Common beef cuts: 갈비살 (galbisal, rib meat), 부채살 (buchaesal, flat iron), and others; 한우 (hanwoo, Korean beef) is significantly more expensive than imported beef from Australia or the US
• Black pork vs. regular pork: most Jeju locals eat regular pork daily; black pork is for special occasions or tourists
• Why self-cooking? Koreans prefer communal dining at their own pace; the youngest person (막내, maknae) typically handles grilling first, then hands off to the next youngest; seniors rarely cook
• 눈치 (nunchi) = reading the room: Koreans prefer self-service to avoid bothering staff or being bothered; refill your own side dishes and water; don't overstay when it gets crowded
• Meat scissors: the most iconic Korean BBQ tool; cutting meat while grilling increases surface area for faster cooking and ensures no pink remains (Koreans prefer fully cooked meat)
• Smoke vents: the pipe above your table sucks up most smoke; check under your seat for a hidden compartment to store jackets and bags away from cooking smells
• Practical tips: start with small portions (you can always refill side dishes for free); observe what locals do; ask questions if unsure (Koreans are kind to foreigners); don't worry about grilling perfectly on your first try!

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who loves Korean BBQ

Key Takeaways

• Mini Olleh standards: under 90 minutes, not too difficult, within 15 minutes of bus stops on both ends, includes at least one stamping station
• North coast (Jeju City): Sarabong Oreum (Trail 18 start, under 1 hour, murals, harbor views); Dodubong + Rainbow Coastal Road (Trail 17 midpoint at Eoyong Park, 1-1.5 hours, cafes, plane views)
• Northeast coast: Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (Trail 20 midpoint near Camel Coffee and windmills, flat walk, emerald beaches, K-drama location, bus 201 nearby)
• East coast: Gwangchigi Beach to Seongsan port (Trail 1 endpoint, walk through town, cross bridge for Iceland-like views, bus 201 serves both ends)
• East coast: Sehwa Beach and Haenyeo Museum (Trail 21 start, Sumbisori Gil loop through farmlands, Byeolbangjin fortress with canola flowers, optional push to midpoint for two stamps, kalguksu restaurant with money on the walls)
• South coast (Seogwipo): Olleh HQ is the stamping station for Trail 6 end / Trail 7 start; east fork goes to Jeongbang and Sojeongbang waterfalls (60-75 min); west fork goes past Jeju's only rice field to a temple and coastal road (45-60 min)
• More mini trails in the blog post: vamosajeju.com/hike

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Get a passport, collect a few stamps, and come back to finish the trail

This episode covers everything a potential hiker needs to know, from the meaning of "Olleh" (a Jeju dialect word for the narrow pathway between a traditional house and the village road) to the passport stamping system, the blue (clockwise) and orange (counterclockwise) trail markers, and how to get the completion certificate at the Seogwipo headquarters.

Ed shares his top three favorite courses and Sora teases a future guided Olleh tour for English speakers.

Key Takeaways

• 27 routes totaling 437 km; most people do one trail (5-8 hours) or half a trail, not the whole thing
• No registration required to walk; just follow the blue and orange ribbons with the Ganse horse symbol
• Optional passport system: buy a booklet at any Olleh visitor center; stamp at the start, midpoint, and end of each trail; endpoint of one trail is the start of the next
• Blue arrows = clockwise direction; orange arrows = counterclockwise
• Completion certificate and pin awarded at Jeju Olleh Foundation HQ in Seogwipo (warning: they make you ring a bell and read an award speech)
• Who should try it: people who like walking, have time, are comfortable navigating buses (some routes have buses only every 2 hours), and are okay staying in local pensions
• Ed's top 3 courses: Course 21 (Haenyeo Museum through Sumbisori Gil, farmlands, Hado Beach, Jimibong); Course 8/9 (Gunsan Oreum descent through horse trail tunnel to a Mediterranean-style port); Course 1 (ending at Gwangchigi Beach with sunset or sunrise views of Seongsan Ilchulbong)
• Sora is developing a 1-2 week guided Olleh tour in English; contact soraya@vamosajeju.com
• Blog post: vamosajeju.com/olleh

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with someone who needs a walking challenge

Key Takeaways

• Urban walks in Jeju City: Jeonnongno Cherry Blossom Street has murals, cafes, and souvenir shops even without cherry blossoms; 30 minutes to 2 hours; quit anytime
• Urban walks in Seogwipo: Lee Jung-Seop Street starts at the Olle daily market and goes downhill past cafes and shops to the artist's museum (closed for renovation until 2027, but free gallery available); can extend to Saeyeongyo Bridge and Saeseom Island
• Sarabong Oreum: 7-15 minutes to the top; one of the top 10 views from Joseon dynasty (Sabong Nakjo sunset); local kids, rabbits, exercising elders; cherry blossoms in spring
• Dodubong Oreum + Rainbow Coastal Road: views of planes landing; cafes with rooftops and elevators; Eoyong Park near the runway; Daiso escape hatch for shopping; buses run hourly
• Beach walks: Pyoseon (check tide tables; combine with Jeju Folk Village); Gwangchigi Beach near Seongsan (green carpet of seaweed on lava rock at low tide; stunning sunrise or sunset views of Ilchulbong)
• Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike

Next Steps

• Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip
• Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook
• Share the show with a friend who hates hiking but loves views

Sora explains how these rotating markets date back to the Goryeo dynasty, with vendors traveling between villages on a 5-day cycle (dates ending in 2 and 7, or 3 and 8, etc.).

Their favorites:

• Sehwa (near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance)
• Seongsan (shooting location for Our Blues)
• Hallim (famous gimbap lady with a waiting list)
• Seogwipo (lots of food options).

Check dates before you go — they're only open one day then gone for four.

Takeaways

• Five-day markets (오일장): Rotate on fixed dates (e.g., 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, 27th of each month)
• Much more authentic than touristy Dongmun/Olle markets — fresh produce, local vendors, fair prices
• Vendors are mostly grandmas/grandpas; arrive early (6-7am), leave by 3-4pm regardless of official hours
• Sehwa Market: Near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance — combine with museum visit
• Hallim Market: Sora's favorite; famous gimbap lady (book first, stroll for an hour, then pick up)
• Seogwipo Market: Watch grandmas bargaining in Jeju dialect; sit and eat while observing local life
• Goseong Market: Near Seongsan, small, K-drama "Our Blues" filming location

Must-try foods:

• 빈떡 (bintteok, Jeju-only buckwheat crepes)
• 꽈배기 (kkwabaegi, twisted donuts)
• 호떡 (hotteok)
• 떡볶이 (tteokbokki)
• 순대 (sundae, blood sausage — not ice cream!)
• 뻥튀기 (ppong-twigi, puffed rice discs)
• 짜장면 (jajangmyeon) 

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Review of previous phrases for market use:

• 이거 얼마예요? (igeo eolmayeyo?) — How much is this?
• 이거 주세요 (igeo juseyo) — Please give me this
• 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) — Thank you
• 맛있어요 (mashisseoyo) — It's delicious
• 안녕히 계세요 (annyeonghi gyeseyo) — Goodbye (to someone staying)

Sora's tip: Get straight to the point, but always say 감사합니다, 안녕히 계세요 when leaving.

Next Steps

1. Five-day market guide: vamosajeju.com/market
2. 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
3. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

Jeju has its own endemic species — the King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) — discovered in the early 1900s and native only to Jeju. They share five spots:

• Jeonnongro Street (tunnel effect, murals as consolation prize)
• Noksan-ro (canola flowers + windmills + cherry blossoms triple threat)
• Jeju National University campus (local picnic vibe, cheap restaurants nearby)
• Samseong-hyeol (traditional architecture, paid entry ~4,000 won)
• Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (open until 10pm for night viewing). Cherry blossoms bloom late March to mid-April but can end abruptly with rain.

Takeaways

• Jeju's King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) is endemic to Jeju — different species from Japan and mainland Korea
• Season: Late March to early-April; can end abruptly with rain/wind
• Canola flowers (yellow): February to April/May — longer season, good consolation prize
• Jeonnongro Street: Near Jeju City, cherry blossom tunnel effect, 100+ murals, cafes — 3-4 hour visit
• Gasiri Noksan-ro: Southeast, 1 hour from city, triple combo of cherry blossoms + canola flowers + windmills; need rental car; nearby: Folk Village, Snoopy Garden
• Jeju National University: Local picnic spot, cheap restaurants nearby; consolation: Gwaneumsa Temple (Attorney Woo filming location), Crash Landing on You forest scene
• Samseong-hyeol: Downtown Jeju near City Hall, traditional architecture, ~4,000 won entry; nearby: Noodle Street (국수거리) for gogi guksu
• Cheonjiyeon Waterfall: Seogwipo, open until 10pm for night cherry blossom viewing, ~2,000 won entry

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

벚꽃 (beotkkot) = cherry blossom

Describing beauty:

• 예쁘다 (yeppeuda) — pretty (for flowers, women, things)
• 잘생겼다 (jalsaenggyeotta) — handsome (for men only)
• 멋있다 (meositta) — cool/impressive (for mountains, scenery, men)

Next Steps

1. Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start
2. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
3. Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Jeju's volcanic soil, clean filtered water, and humid climate make it ideal for tea cultivation, now rivaling Japan's famous Uji region.

They discuss the difference between green tea (brewed leaves) and matcha (ground whole leaf), and recommend several tea plantations:

• Osulloc (biggest, but crowded — go early)
• Seogwi Dawon (small, 80-year-old grandma serves tea, no tour groups)
• Orteas (reservation-only tea ceremony)
• Onulun (lava cave underneath, green tea foot bath).

Takeaways

• Jeju tea rivals Japan's Uji region; volcanic soil, filtered water, and humid climate are ideal for cultivation
• 말차 (malcha) = matcha in Korean; 녹차 (nokcha) = green tea
• Matcha = ground whole leaf (more caffeine, more nutrients); green tea = brewed extract
• Harvest season: April-June; early harvest (April) is smoother and more expensive; June harvest is stronger
• Osulloc Tea Museum: Biggest, free entry, beautiful fields — but crowded (tour buses, food court vibe); go early morning
• Seogwi Dawon: Small, tranquil, 80-year-old grandma owner, 5,000 won entry includes 2 teas, views of Hallasan peak, no large tour groups
• Orteas: Reservation-only, Airbnb experience, 4-tea ceremony (green, black, hojicha, matcha) — no random tourists
• Onulun Green Tea House: Lava cave underneath tea fields, green tea foot bath (~$10)
• Aewol area: Matcha bingsu, matcha ice cream, croiffle

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

마실래요 (mashillaeyo) = Would you like to drink? / I would like to drink

• 뭐 마실래요? (mwo mashillaeyo?) — What would you like to drink?
• 말차 마실래요 (malcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink matcha
• 녹차 마실래요 (nokcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink green tea

Tea vocabulary:

• 녹차 (nokcha) — green tea
• 말차 (malcha) — matcha
• 홍차 (hongcha) — black tea
• 생강차 (saenggang-cha) — ginger tea
• 유자차 (yuja-cha) — citron tea
• 한라봉차 (hallabong-cha) — Hallabong tangerine tea

Next Steps

1. Green tea blog post: vamosajeju.com/tea
2. 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
3. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

This leads into a nuanced discussion of whether DIY travelers should rent a car.

The verdict: rent if you have 3-5 days and want flexibility or off-the-beaten-path destinations (west coast, tangerine farms, green tea fields); skip if you're a novice driver, staying only in Jeju City, or have just 2 days.

They cover the rental process, GPS language settings, self-service gas stations, parking, and the dreaded 30 km/h school zone speed traps that can rack up 120,000 won ($90) fines.

Takeaways

• Green pump = diesel, yellow pump = gasoline (same across Korea and Japan)
• Rent a car if: 3-5 days, want flexibility, visiting off-the-beaten-path places (west coast, tangerine farms, green tea fields, Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road)
• Skip the car if: novice driver, staying only in Jeju City, just 2 days, uncomfortable with night driving (no lights on mid-mountain roads, hairpin turns)
• Need international driver's license; not all companies rent to foreigners — check for English website
• Lotte Rent-a-Car and SK Rent-a-Car work with foreigners; price includes collision damage waiver and roadside assistance
• At airport: follow signs to rental car shuttle bus → office → complete paperwork → get car
• Ask staff to change GPS language to English before leaving the lot
• Self-service gas stations (셀프) are slightly cheaper; kiosks often have English
• Parking free outside Jeju City and Seogwipo; paid parking auto-calculated via transponder and billed to rental company
• Speed traps everywhere near schools: 30 km/h zones for children, 50 km/h for elderly areas
• Speeding ticket = 120,000 won (~$90) per violation — can rack up multiple fines in one drive
• Tickets billed to your credit card through rental company even after you leave Korea
• No freeways on Jeju; Hallasan blocks direct routes — trips take longer than expected

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Gas station phrases — attendant is called 사장님 (sajangnim)

• 가득요 (gadeugyo) — Fill it up (or just say "full")
• 5만원요 (oman-won-yo) — 50,000 won worth
• 카드 (kadeu) — Card
• 현금 (hyeongeum) — Cash

Note: 카드 (card) and 가득 (full) sound similar — pronunciation matters!

Next Steps

1. Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start
2. Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
3. Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed shares a story about Chinese tourists stranded in Seongsan after 10pm when buses stopped running. They cover bus colors (red = express, blue = regular, green = village), the T-Money card system, transfer rules, and the new option for tourists to use contactless payments on Jeju buses.

For taxis, Uber now works in Korea but summons real taxis due to the strong taxi union.

Takeaways

• Buses stop early (9-9:30pm) in tourist areas; check Jeju bus website for schedules, not just map apps
• Bus colors: Red = express (~$3), Blue = regular (~$1), Green = village (infrequent)
• T-Money card works everywhere; tap out for free transfers (40 min window, up to 2 more buses)
• Buy T-Money at convenience stores (3,000-4,000 won); most buses don't accept cash
• Tourists can now use contactless Visa/MasterCard and Apple Pay on Jeju buses (not mainland Korea)
• Large luggage: use airport limousine bus or taxi; some blue buses have luggage bays
• Uber calls real taxis in Korea (same app, same payment method from home)
• Red taxi light = empty, green = occupied (counterintuitive!)
• Have your destination address in Korean on your phone for taxi drivers
• Kakao Map recommended over Naver Map for restaurant reviews (fewer fakes)

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

가요 (gayo) = Go / Going — raise intonation to make it a question

• 공항 가요? (gonghang gayo?) — Does this go to the airport?
• 성산일출봉 가요? (Seongsan Ilchulbong gayo?) — Does this go to Seongsan?
• 안 가요 (an gayo) — No, it doesn't go

돼요 (dwaeyo) = Is it possible?

• 카드 돼요? (kadeu dwaeyo?) — Can I pay by card?

Next Steps

1.    Read the blogpost on taking buses on Jeju at vamosajeju.com/bus.

Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

This episode gives you everything you need to plan your visit: what the peak actually is (a 5,000-year-old hydrovolcano with a massive crater), how long the climb takes (about 30 minutes up, 15-20 down), how to avoid crowds (early morning, late afternoon, or weekdays outside of school field trip season), and what you can do for free versus the 5,000 won paid entrance. Ed and Soraya also discuss the daily haenyeo diving demonstration at 2pm—including Ed's candid take on its authenticity—and explain why the peak earned its place among the New Seven Wonders of Nature.

Takeaways

•      Seongsan Ilchulbong (성산일출봉) means "Castle Mountain Sunrise Peak"—named for its castle-like shape and famous sunrise views

•      The climb takes about 30 minutes up, 15-20 minutes down; it's paved with stairs and railings, manageable for most fitness levels

•      Entrance fee: 5,000 won (~$3 USD) to climb to the peak; the coastal trail and haenyeo show are free

•      Avoid crowds by going early morning (for sunrise), late afternoon, or on weekdays—especially outside May and October when school field trips flood the site

•      The free haenyeo demonstration happens daily at 2pm near the beach; you can also eat fresh seafood at the haenyeo restaurant there

•      Jeju Island (including Seongsan Ilchulbong) is one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature, alongside places like the Amazon, Ha Long Bay, and Iguazu Falls

•      At the top: a green crater (no water—volcanic rock is too porous), panoramic views of Hallasan, dozens of oreums, and Udo island; no shelter, so bring sun protection

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

얼마예요 (eolmayeyo) — "How much is it?"

•      Structure: [thing] + 얼마예요?

•      아메리카노 얼마예요? (amerikano eolmayeyo?) — "How much is an Americano?"

•      오렌지 얼마예요? (orenji eolmayeyo?) — "How much is an orange?"

•      티켓 얼마예요? (ticket eolmayeyo?) — "How much is a ticket?"

이거 얼마예요? (igeo eolmayeyo?) — "How much is this?"

•      이거 (igeo) means "this thing"—use it when you don't know the Korean word for something

•      Pro tip: Have a calculator app ready on your phone; shopkeepers will punch in the price if you can't understand the number

Next Steps

1.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Follow Vamos a Jeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook

3.    Share the episode with friends to help the podcast grow

4.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

5.    Sign up for dispatches at vamosajeju.com/update

This episode breaks down what to expect in each season:

• winter offers fewer crowds, cheaper prices, tangerine picking, and snowy Hallasan;
• spring brings cherry blossoms, canola flowers, and better air quality than Seoul's yellow dust;
• summer means beach time, typhoon season, and crowds from mainland Korea;
• fall delivers the best weather, stunning autumn foliage on Hallasan, and tangerine season starting up.

Ed and Sora also warn about Korea's "golden weeks" — Seollal (Lunar New Year), the August vacation shutdown, and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) — when half of Korea is on the move and competing for tickets is impossible.

Key Takeaways

Winter (December - early March)

• Fewer crowds, cheaper flights and accommodations — great for budget travelers
• Snowy Hallasan is beautiful but requires crampons and hiking poles
• Tangerine picking season (see Episode 5)
• Outdoor jjimjilbang (sauna) experience available
• Avoid: Seollal (Lunar New Year) — impossible to get tickets

Spring (late March - May)

• Cherry blossoms (late March - mid April) and canola flowers (Feb/March - May)
• Much better air quality than Seoul (less yellow dust/황사 and fine dust)
• Good hiking weather

Summer (June - August)

• Beach season — can start swimming from late May
• Very hot and humid
• Beach parasol/chair rentals: ~30,000 won ($20) for the day
• Best time: June or July before the August rush when half of Korea heads to beaches

Fall (late September - November)

• Stunning autumn foliage on Hallasan
• Tangerine season begins end-November

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

있어요 / 없어요 (isseoyo / eopseoyo) = There is / There isn't (or: Do you have? / We don't have any)

Useful for asking if stores have seasonal items:

Spring

• 마스크 있어요? (maseukeu isseoyo?) — Do you have masks? (for yellow dust)

Summer

• 선크림 있어요? (seонkeulim isseoyo?) — Do you have sunscreen?
• 우산 있어요? (usan isseoyo?) — Do you have umbrellas?
• 비옷 있어요? (bi-ot isseoyo?) — Do you have rain jackets?

Fall

• 셀카봉 있어요? (selkabong isseoyo?) — Do you have selfie sticks?

Winter

• 핫팩 있어요? (hatpaek isseoyo?) — Do you have hot packs?
• 패딩 있어요? (paeding isseoyo?) — Do you have puffer jackets?

If they don't have it: 없어요 (eopseoyo) = "We don't have any"

Combine with 주세요 (juseyo): 핫팩 주세요 (hatpaek juseyo) = "Please give me a hot pack"

Next Steps

• Hallasan climbing guide: vamosajeju.com/climb
• Jeju coast guide: vamosajeju.com/coast
• 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
• Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
• Share this episode with friends planning a Korea trip!

Unlike Hallasan or Seongsan Ilchulbong, most oreums are easy to climb (some just 10 minutes to the top), uncrowded, and offer spectacular views.

Sora shares her favorites near Jeju City — Sarabong, Byeoldobong, and Dodubong — where you'll find kindergartners on picnics, elderly locals exercising, wild rabbits, and cherry blossoms in spring.

Ed recounts his accidental discovery of Gunsan Oreum while hiking the Olle Trail, where a challenging forest climb suddenly opened up to a breathtaking southern Jeju panorama.

For travelers who find Hallasan too challenging or Seongsan too crowded, oreums offer an authentic, peaceful alternative — and you might be the only tourist there.

Takeaways

• Oreums are small volcanic cones — 368 across Jeju; as of 2024, no longer called "parasitic cones" since some are older than Hallasan itself
• Why climb oreums: Easy (10-15 minutes), quiet (walking meditation vibes), beautiful views without crowds
• Oreums near Jeju City:
  • Sarabong: 10 min climb, views of old Jeju City/airport/ocean, cherry blossoms in spring, very local (kindergartners, exercising elders, wild rabbits)
  • Byeoldobong: Connected to Sarabong, harbor views, lighthouse with cafe
  • Dodubong: Near airport, K-drama filming location ("Welcome to Samdali"), great for plane-watching
• Yongnuni Oreum (Sora's favorite): Sunrise views of Seongsan and Udo, horses roaming, trail through horse paddocks
• Gunsan Oreum (Ed's favorite): Southern Jeju — discovered accidentally on Olle Trail; can drive up and walk 5 minutes, or hike through forest like Ed did ("like an idiot")
• Government closes some oreums periodically for nature recovery — check before you go

Even non-hikers should try one oreum — easier than Hallasan, more peaceful than Seongsan, authentic local experience

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

천천히 (cheoncheonhi) = Slowly / Take your time

The opposite of Korea's famous 빨리빨리 (pali pali / hurry hurry).

천천히 하세요 (cheoncheonhi haseyo) - Please do it slowly/ Take your time
천천히 해 주세요 (cheoncheonhi hae juseyo) - Please do this slowly

천천히 가세요 (cheoncheonhi gaseyo) Go slowly

천천히 오세요 (cheoncheonhi oseyo) Come slowly/Take your time coming

Tip: Korean allows omitting words — just saying 천천히 works and people will understand from context.

Key verbs: 하세요 (do), 가세요 (go), 오세요 (come)

Next Steps

• 14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/start
• Follow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook
• Share this episode with friends planning a Korea trip!
  

Takeaways

•      The podcast is designed for independent travelers who want to experience Jeju beyond fixed tour itineraries

•      Ed's completion of all 437 km of the Olleh Trail means you'll get firsthand, trail-tested advice (even most Jeju locals haven't finished it)

•      Soraya's background—corporate Korea refugee, multilingual tour guide, Korean language instructor—gives her a unique perspective on what foreign visitors actually need

•      Jeju shamanism is still actively practiced today, tied to haenyeo culture and the risks of sea work; you can witness annual rituals like the Yeongdeung Halmang ceremony

•      The 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start compiles everything the hosts know about DIY Jeju travel

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Hello: 안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo)

•      Memory trick: "onion" + "Han Solo" → say it fast and mumble

•      Koreans speak quickly, so don't over-enunciate

Goodbye: Two versions

•      안녕히 가세요 (annyeonghi gaseyo) — "go well" (said to someone leaving)

•      안녕히 계세요 (annyeonghi gyeseyo) — "stay well" (said when you're the one leaving)

•      Memory trick: If you can't remember which is which, just mumble "ㄱ세요" and let context do the work

Casual: 안녕 (annyeong)

•      Use only with friends or people you know well

•      Foreigners can get away with it (Koreans will find it endearing), but stick to the formal versions in shops and restaurants

Next Steps:

1.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Follow Vamos a Jeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook

3.    Share the episode with friends to help the podcast grow

4.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

5.    Sign up for dispatches at vamosajeju.com/update

This episode dives deep into the world of the haenyeo (해녀)—the women divers who harvest seafood without oxygen tanks, sometimes to depths of 20 meters. Ed and Soraya discuss the Haenyeo Museum in Hado, why it's located at the site of anti-Japanese protests, and what you'll learn inside: the evolution of diving outfits (they once dove naked before Confucian officials made them cover up), the bulteok gathering shelters, and the democratic cooperative system that still supports these women. You'll also hear about the harsh realities of haenyeo life, the three skill levels, why modern women aren't signing up, and Soraya's plans to attend Haenyeo School herself. With only about 3,000 haenyeo left—90% over age 60—this may be the last generation.

Takeaways

•      Haenyeo (해녀) means "sea woman"—they dive without oxygen tanks, harvesting seafood like abalone and conch

•      The Haenyeo Museum in Hado is built where haenyeo gathered to protest Japanese occupation; it's one of the best places to learn about this culture

•      Three skill levels exist: beginners work shallow waters; the most advanced (sanggun) dive to 20 meters for up to 2 minutes—deeper than many scuba divers go

•      The bulteok (불턱) is the stone shelter where haenyeo gather before/after diving, process their catch, nurse babies, and learn from senior divers

•      Haenyeo cooperatives operate democratically—members vote on decisions and support each other financially when someone is sick or unable to work

•      Jeju saying: "It's better to be born a cow than a woman in Jeju"—haenyeo did housework, childcare, AND diving while (stereotypically) men drank and gambled

•      Only ~3,000 haenyeo remain today (down from 15,000-20,000 in the 1960s-70s); 90% are over 60 years old

•      Two government-run Haenyeo Schools exist; Soraya plans to attend the beginner course this year

•      Annual shamanic rituals honor the Dragon King (for safe diving) and the Wind Goddess (for seafood reproduction)

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Getting attention: 저기요 (jeogiyo) — "Excuse me"

•      Use to get a server's attention or call out to someone

•      저기요, 이거 얼마예요? — "Excuse me, how much is this?"

•      저기요, 티켓 얼마예요? — "Excuse me, how much is a ticket?"

Passing through: 잠시만요 / 잠깐만요 (jamsimanyo / jamkkanmanyo) — "Just a moment"

•      Use when you need to pass someone on a crowded bus or train

•      Literally means "just a moment"—implies "let me pass, please"

•      Different from 저기요: use 저기요 to get attention, 잠시만요 to move past someone

Next Steps

1.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Follow Vamos a Jeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook

3.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Sign up for dispatches at vamosajeju.com/update

You'll learn why Jeju has its own dialect, culture, and identity—rooted in its history as the independent Tamna Kingdom before being absorbed into Korea. Ed and Soraya explain how Hallasan, the tallest mountain in South Korea, shapes everything from road networks to weather patterns (pro tip: if it's raining on one side of the island, drive to the other). They also cover the best seasons to visit, why cherry blossom chasers should start in Jeju and head north, and what visitors remember most: the calming natural beauty, the resilience of the haenyeo divers, and yes, the tangerines.

Takeaways

•      Jeju was once an independent kingdom called Tamna (탐라)—that's why its dialect, culture, and traditions differ significantly from mainland Korea

•      Hallasan (1,947m) dominates the island: it affects road routes, creates different weather on the north vs. south sides, and holds deep cultural significance

•      Best seasons: Spring (late March–May) for cherry blossoms and mild weather; Autumn (late September–November) for fall foliage; Winter (November–February) for tangerine season

•      Cherry blossoms bloom in Jeju about a week before Seoul—if you're chasing blossoms, start south and move north

•      The island is about the size of Maui (73km east-west, 31km north-south) with 368 small volcanic cones scattered across it

•      What visitors remember most: the healing quality of Jeju's natural scenery, the haenyeo's resilience, and the tangerines

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

주세요 (juseyo) — "Please give me..."

•      The most useful phrase for travelers in Korea

•      Structure: [thing you want] + 주세요

•      아메리카노 주세요 (amerikano juseyo) — "Americano, please"

•      라떼 주세요 (latte juseyo) — "Latte, please"

•      아이스크림 주세요 (ice cream juseyo) — "Ice cream, please"

•      Note: 주 (ju) means "give," so this literally means "please give me"

Next Steps

1.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Follow Vamos a Jeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook

3.    Share the episode with friends to help the podcast grow

4.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

5.    Sign up for dispatches at vamosajeju.com/update

Takeaways

Flights (Seoul/Busan → Jeju)

•        Price range: $15-70 one-way

•        Cheapest: Mid-week, early morning or late evening flights

•        Baggage: Mainline carriers allow 20kg checked baggage, but only 15kg for LCCs. All allow 10kg carry-on

•        Visitors: No mobile boarding pass, need to check in at airport

•        Power banks: Must be declared and tagged

•        Liquids: Allowed on domestic flights.

Lodging

•        Hostel: ~$20

•        Motel (Private room): ~$30

•        3-star hotel: $80-100

•        Airbnb: Prices vary

Transportation

•        Rental car: <$100/day including insurance and roadside assistance

•        Bus: ~$1 per ride

•        Airport buses: ~$4 (goes to Jeju City, Seogwipo, Seongsan)

•        Taxi: Within Jeju City is ~$10, to Seogwipo: ~$50

•        Tip: Use Uber app for real taxis

Food & Drinks

•        Convenience store meal: $3-4

•        Full restaurant meal: ~$7 (10,000 won)

•        McDonald's combo: ~$7

•        Coffee (McDonalds/Mega/Compose): $1-2

•        Coffee (fancy cafe): $7-8

•        High-end/Michelin: $100+ per person

Admission Fees

•        Free: National museums, oreums (hiking), Hallasan (requires registration), Arboretum

•        Government attractions: Usually under $5

•        Private attractions: Up to ~$10

•        Tangerine picking: ~$7 (10,000 won)

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Sino-Korean Numbers (for prices)

Basic numbers:

•        1 = 일 (il), 2 = 이 (i), 3 = 삼 (sam), 4 = 사 (sa), 5 = 오 (o)

•        100 = 백 (baek), 1,000 = 천 (cheon), 10,000 = 만 (man)

Key concept: Korean groups digits by 4 zeros (만 = 10,000), not 3 zeros like English

Examples:

•        4,000원 = 사천원 (sacheon-won)

•        50,000원 = 오만원 (oman-won) — think "five ten-thousands" not "fifty thousand" 

Next Steps

1.     Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.     Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed and Soraya break down where to stay (Jeju City for convenience, Seogwipo for tranquility, beach towns or mid-mountain for authenticity) and the types of lodging available: hostels, motels/hotels, pensions, minbak (민박, traditional room rentals), hotels, temple stays, yoga/wellness retreats, and camping cars.

Ed gives a primer on Korean "wet bathrooms"—where the entire bathroom is designed to get wet when you shower. The episode includes practical advice on choosing locations based on trip length and whether you're willing to pack/unpack daily.

Takeaways

Where to Stay — By Region

•      Jeju City (North): Busiest area, airport, cruise port, everything you need. Best for short trips (3-4 days).

•      Seogwipo City (South): Second-largest city, more tranquil, beautiful beaches nearby.

•      Beach towns / Mid-mountain: For authentic Jeju experience. East and west coasts, or forest areas near Hallasan.

•      With a rental car: Circle the island—one night each in north, east, south, west.

•      Jeju City has two areas: Old Town (older buildings, less crowded, nice atmosphere) and New Jeju (high-rises, more restaurants/cafes/shops, like Seoul).

Types of Accommodation

•      Hostel: ~$20/night for a bed

•      Motel (모텔): ~$25-40/night, budget option, often no parking. Also called "love hotels" (러브호텔)—used for privacy/one-night stays.

•      Pension (펜션): Like Airbnb with nice views (beach/forest), includes kitchen for cooking.

•      Minbak (민박): Room in a local's home. Look for signs on houses.

•      Hotels: Range from ~$40-50 to luxury.

•      Temple stay: Sleep in a Buddhist temple.

•      Yoga/wellness retreats: ~$150/night, includes yoga classes, meditation, tea time.

•      Camping car (RV): $100-200/day (plus gas). Limited regulation—can park near ocean in most places.

Korean "Wet Bathroom" Survival Guide

•      Entire bathroom gets wet when you shower—no glass partition or curtain

•      Outlets have flip covers; toilet paper has partial cover

•      Bathroom slippers required

•      Single faucet switches between sink and shower—remember to switch back or get surprise-soaked

•      Only small hand towels provided—bring your own large towel if needed

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

어디에요? (eodieyo?) — "Where is ___?"

•      Structure: [noun] + 어디에요?

Examples:

•      스타벅스 어디에요? (Starbucks eodieyo?) = "Where is Starbucks?"

•      화장실 어디에요? (hwajangsil eodieyo?) = "Where is the bathroom?"

Next Steps

1.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

2.    Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

In this episode, Ed and Soraya rank the 10 biggest tourist traps on the island—places that are famous, often crowded, sometimes overpriced, and may leave you wondering "that's it?" Number one offender: Mysterious Road, an optical illusion that doesn't always work and isn't worth the drive. They also cover why Jeju's famous black pork tastes the same as regular pork (even locals choose white pork), why the traditional markets are overpriced for what you get, and why Udo Island's charm has faded under the weight of tour bus commissions. Some places make the list as 50-50 calls—Osulloc Tea Museum has beautiful tea fields but a food-court atmosphere, and Jusangjeolli Cliff is genuinely stunning but requires patience to navigate the crowds. The episode helps you decide what's worth your limited time on Jeju.

The 10 Tourist Traps (Ranked Worst to Best)

1.    Mysterious Road (도깨비도로) — An optical illusion where things appear to roll uphill. Often doesn't work well. Both hosts agree: never go.

2.    Yongduam (용두암) & Oedolgae (외돌개) — Dragon Head Rock near the airport and Lonely Rock near Seogwipo. Fine if you're nearby, not worth a special trip.

3.    Waterfalls — Cheonjiyeon (천지연), Cheonjeyeon (천제연), Jeongbang (정방) — Small and "cute" compared to world-famous falls. Cheonjiyeon is nice for an evening walk; Jeongbang is unique (flows directly into the sea).

4.    Udo Island (우도) — Once beautiful, now overrun by tour groups due to driver commissions. Nature is still nice; atmosphere has changed.

5.    Traditional Markets — Dongmun (동문시장) & Olle Market (올레시장) — Worth 20-30 minutes to look around, but overpriced. One skewer costs what a full restaurant meal would.

6.    Black Pork (흑돼지) — Famous Jeju specialty, but even locals often choose white pork. Try it once if curious.

7.    Aewol & Hamdeok Cafe Streets — Beautiful beaches, but cafes are overpriced and crowded with people taking photos. Many quieter alternatives exist.

8.    Seongeup Folk Village (성읍민속마을) — 50-50. Real people still live here, preserved from Joseon dynasty. Worth it if staying in the south.

9.    Jusangjeolli Cliff (주상절리) — Genuinely beautiful hexagonal basalt columns. But gets very crowded with pushy tourists. Pack patience.

10. Osulloc Tea Museum (오설록) — 50-50. Biggest green tea farm in Jeju with beautiful fields, but feels like a busy food court. Not the tranquil tea experience you'd expect.

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Yes and No — Variations

Formal:

•      네 (ne) = Yes

•      아니요 (aniyo) = No

Very formal (to superiors/in professional settings):

•      예 (ye) = Yes (sounds like English "yeah" but is actually more formal)

Casual:

•      응 (eung) or 어 (eo) = Yes (just sounds/grunts)

•      아니 (ani) = No (drop the 요)

Use it: Say 아니요 to all the tourist traps!

Next Steps

• Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start
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Ed and Soraya share where to spot wild dolphins (the Sunset Coastal Road in the southwest, with 120+ dolphins in residence), the best spots for sunrise (Gwangchigi Beach near Seongsan Ilchulbong) and sunset (Hallim-Hyeopjae with views of Biyangdo island). They cover family-friendly beaches with shallow water (Hamdeok, Pyoseon), the iconic windmill coastal roads, water sports options from scuba diving to transparent kayaks, and what you'll encounter while hiking the coast: haenyeo drying their wetsuits, ajummas hanging thousands of squid to dry, and over 100 small fishing ports. Plus practical tips on when and where to actually see haenyeo at work.

Takeaways

•      Wild dolphins: 120+ dolphins live around Jeju, mostly spotted on the west coast; check local cafe Instagram accounts for recent sightings

•      Best sunset: Sunset Coastal Road (southwest) or Hallim-Hyeopjae beach (northwest)

•      Best sunrise: Gwangchigi Beach (광치기 해변) near Seongsan Ilchulbong—at low tide you get tide pools and rock formations in the foreground

•      Windmills: Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road (신창풍차해안도로) in the northwest is the most famous; also find them near Kimnyeong and Woljeongni beaches

•      Family-friendly beaches: Hamdeok (northeast) and Pyoseon (southeast)—both have shallow water; Pyoseon becomes a massive sandy play area at low tide

•      Water sports: Scuba/freediving mainly around Seogwipo; transparent kayaks at Woljeongni and Gwakji; surfing at multiple beaches (check wave conditions)

•      Seeing haenyeo: Go early morning (they finish before noon); bad weather may cancel diving; late in the day you can still see them harvesting seaweed or clams at low tide

•      Coastal cafes: Hundreds of oceanfront cafes, especially in the northwest and northeast—Koreans love to enjoy coffee with a view

•      Sun protection: Koreans take it very seriously—expect to see long sleeves, rash guards, and even gloves at the beach

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

Ordering coffee at a cafe

•      Coffee words are Konglish (Korean + English): 아메리카노 (amerikano), 라떼 (latte), 모카 (mocha), 에스프레소 (espresso)

•      Korean word order: [item] + [number] + 주세요

•      아메리카노 하나 주세요 (amerikano hana juseyo) = "One Americano, please"

아아 (ah-ah) — Iced Americano

•      Koreans shorten "ice Americano" to just 아아 (the first syllable of each word)

•      아아 하나 주세요 (ah-ah hana juseyo) = "One iced Americano, please"

•      Most Koreans drink iced Americano—it's the default coffee order

Next Steps

1.    Check out the companion blog post at vamosajeju.com/coast

2.    Sign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/start

3   Visit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed and Soraya cover the history (tangerines were once so precious that Joseon kings gave them as rewards to scholars), the scale (over 50 varieties grown on the island), and the best way to experience them: tangerine picking at a U-pick farm. For about 5,000 won (~$3-4 USD), you get one hour of unlimited eating plus a bag to take home. The hosts explain when to go (November is peak season), how to find farms (search 감귤체험 on Naver or Kakao Map), and why farm-fresh tangerines taste noticeably better than supermarket ones. They also share tips on the sweetest varieties, where to buy tangerines (farms > roadside stands > markets > supermarkets), and what to do with any extras—including shipping boxes home via Taegbae delivery.

Takeaways

•      Jeju has over 50 varieties of tangerines; the Hallabong (with the distinctive bump on top) is the most famous

•      Best season: Late October through February/March, with November being the peak time to see orange-laden trees

•      U-pick farms cost about 5,000 won (~$3-4 USD) for one hour of unlimited eating plus ~1kg to take home

•      To find farms: Search 감귤체험 (gamgyul cheheom) on Naver Map or Kakao Map; no booking usually required

•      Price/quality ranking: Farm (best, cheapest) > Roadside stands > Markets (tourist prices) > Supermarkets

•      For the sweetest tangerines, look for Tyvek (타이벡 감귤)—grown with reduced water to concentrate sugars

•      "University tree" (대학나무): Tangerine trees were once so valuable that one tree could pay for a child's university tuition

•      Pro tip: Do tangerine picking early in your trip so you have time to enjoy what you harvest

•      Tangerine Museum near Seogwipo is a decent rainy-day activity but not worth a special trip

Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)

하나 둘 셋 (hana dul set) — "One, two, three" (Korean numbers)

•      Korean has two number systems: native Korean (하나, 둘, 셋) and Sino-Korean (일, 이, 삼)

•      Use Korean numbers for counting things: 하나 (one), 둘 (two), 셋 (three)

•      Use Sino-Korean numbers for larger amounts, prices, phone numbers

Tangerine vocabulary:

•      귤 (gyul) = tangerine

•      귤 하나 주세요 (gyul hana juseyo) = "One tangerine, please" (but they'll probably give it to you for free!)

•      감귤체험 (gamgyul cheheom) = tangerine picking experience (search term for maps)

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