Alexa Marie joins Greg Finch for a story-forward conversation about the waves that stay with us and why surfing can become far more than recreation.

Alexa shares how a friend’s before-school surf session first opened her imagination, how she found her way from inland Orange County to Doheny, and how joining a high-school surf team helped make the ocean part of her life. She reflects on surfing as a spiritual practice and a place to reconnect with herself, recharge from the demands of entrepreneurship, and return to everyday life with more energy.

The conversation explores the shift from pressure and competition toward presence and fun, how breathing and grounding help Alexa meet both waves and life’s bigger moments, and why surfing can train our capacity to enter a flow state without running through a mental checklist.

Alexa also shares the advice she received from Cheryl, a longtime Doheny surfer: “Stay high on the wave.” It became both a surfing cue and a way to work with the emotional waves that show up beyond the water.

For surfers who understand that a session can shape far more than the time spent riding waves.

Connect with Alexa Marie:

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alexaaligned/

Masterclass: https://masterclass.shealignsnow.com/

The Surf Strong Show:

Podcast: https://surfstrongfit.com/podcast

Instagram: https://instagram.com/surfstrongforlife

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@surfstrongforlife

Henry starts with the wave he still daydreams about: a session at Turtle Bay while shooting an independent film in Hawaii. After years of quoting Blue Crush with his surf crew, he found himself working alongside Chris Taloa, paddling out on the North Shore, catching a long wave at Turtle Bay, and walking straight from the water into hair, makeup, and wardrobe with sand still on his feet.

From there, the conversation moves into Henry’s most recent wave: his first real surf session after nearly nine months out of the water during a major home renovation, a double hernia, pneumonia, and the full grind of family life. What could have been an average El Porto beach break session became one of those days that reminds you surfing never really leaves.

Greg and Henry talk about surfing as stillness, stress relief, identity, family, aging, movement, breath, mobility, and the shift from chasing perfect sessions to staying connected for life. They also get into dawn patrol, surf travel, fatherhood, youth sports, learning when not to surf, and why consistency matters more than waiting for perfect conditions.

This is a grounded, funny, and deeply surf-connected conversation about what surfing gives us — and why the wave you remember most is not always the biggest, cleanest, or most impressive one. Sometimes it is the one that brings you back to yourself.

In this episode:

• Henry’s first wave and how surfing helped shift his life and acting career
• The Turtle Bay wave he still daydreams about from a Hawaii film shoot
• Surfing with Chris Taloa after years of quoting Blue Crush
• Henry’s first session back after nine months out of the water
• Why imperfect waves can still deliver the deepest stoke
• Surfing, water immersion, stillness, and mental reset
• Movement, breath, and mobility as daily surf-readiness habits
• Fatherhood, aging, and staying ready to surf with your kids
• Why surf trips require more than just paddling fitness
• Letting surfing evolve without losing the core of what it gives you
  

Guest Links:

Henry Dittman on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/henrydittman/

Henry Dittman on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/henrydittman

ClipCast on Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/clipcast-the-best-clippers-podcast/id574649000

Surf Strong For Life Links:

Apply for 1:1 surf fitness coaching: https://surfstrongfit.com/start

Surf Strong For Life: https://surfstrongfit.com/

The Surf Strong Show is hosted by Greg Finch, surf longevity coach and founder of Surf Strong For Life, helping surfers build strength, mobility, breath control, paddle endurance, and confidence so they can stay surf-ready for decades.

Chris shares the story of his most recent wave at Rincon with his son — a small, uncrowded day that turned into one of those long, quiet, soul-surfing rides you do not want to ruin by paddling back out too soon.

From there, the conversation moves through New Jersey beach culture, learning to surf at Blacks Beach on a board that made no sense for a beginner, life in Redondo Beach, and the connection between acting and surfing. Chris talks about how the “hurry up and wait” rhythm of working on film and television sets mirrors time in the lineup: long stretches of patience, followed by moments where you have to be ready immediately.

Greg and Chris also get into surfing with your kids, knowing your limits in the ocean, longboarding footwork, cross-stepping, and why practicing movement patterns out of the water can help surfers feel more confident when wave time is limited.

This episode is funny, human, surf-connected, and full of the kind of stories that remind us why surfing stays with us for life.

In this episode:

- Chris’s last wave at Rincon

- Surfing with his son

- Growing up “down the shore” in New Jersey

- Learning to surf at Blacks Beach

- How surfing teaches patience and presence

- The overlap between acting, timing, and surfing

- Longboarding footwork and the “dad bunny hop”

- Why dry-land reps matter for better movement in the water

- The unforgettable left Chris still daydreams about

Guest Links:

Chris Wylde: https://www.chriswylde.com/

Chris Wylde on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943699/

Chris Wylde on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/ChrisWylde

ClipCast on Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/clipcast-the-best-clippers-podcast/id574649000

ClipCast on Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/7Aia6OpSRcdTjv15aTtQ8v

ClipCast on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/laclipcast/

Surf Strong Links:

Apply for 1:1 surf fitness coaching: https://surfstrongfit.com/start

Surf Strong For Life: https://surfstrongfit.com/

The Surf Strong Show is hosted by Greg Finch, surf longevity coach and founder of Surf Strong For Life, helping surfers build strength, mobility, breath control, paddle endurance, and confidence so they can stay surf-ready for decades.

Barrett shares her path from professional wakeboarding to surfing, including the early frustration of learning to paddle, read waves, and surrender to an environment where no two waves are ever the same. She also reflects on a long backside right in Morocco that still lives in her memory as one of those waves that changes how you see surfing.

From there, the conversation moves into the deeper side of surf longevity: breath control, hold-down anxiety, paddle endurance, pop-up mechanics, and learning how to stay calm when the ocean puts you under pressure.

Greg and Barrett also talk about dry-land surf training, video review, adapting your pop-up to your own body, and why having fun matters just as much as “getting reps.”

This episode is for surfers who want to keep surfing for life — with more strength, mobility, confidence, awareness, and connection to the ocean.

Listen now and follow The Surf Strong Show for more conversations on surf fitness, longevity, resilience, and ocean-connected living.

Links

Connect with Barrett Perlman
Instagram: @barrettperlman

Work with Greg / Surf Strong For Life
1:1 Surf Fitness Coaching: surfstrongfit.com/start

In this inspiring interview, Shiloh Strong shares his transformative journey through personal health crises, the power of surfing as a source of resilience, and the impactful work of Ashes to Films, a nonprofit supporting creatives affected by disasters. Discover how storytelling, community, and creative healing can turn trauma into hope.

Keywords

Resilience, Surfing, Creative Healing, Ashes to Films, Personal Transformation, Disaster Recovery, Mental Health, Community Support, Filmmaking, Inspiration

Key Topics

• Personal transformation through health crises
• The role of surfing in mental resilience
• The mission and impact of Ashes to Films

Guest Name

Shiloh Strong

Sound bites

"The Vanagon is almost the perfect vehicle."

"The surgery was life-saving."

"Reduce resistance, just go."

Chapters

00:00 Surfing Memories and Personal Connections

01:39 The Significance of the Vanagon

03:38 Life Changes and Heart Surgery

03:39 Growing Up Between Two Landscapes

05:57 The Healing Power of Surfing

08:36 Transition to Santa Barbara and the Fire Incident

10:47 The Impact of Loss and Community Support

13:38 Introducing Ashes to Films

16:03 Creative Recovery Through Filmmaking

18:56 The Journey of Ashes to Films

21:48 Empowering Filmmakers Post-Fire

25:21 Evolving Perspectives on Time and Creativity

27:10 Finding Balance in Passion and Life

29:59 Reducing Resistance to Enjoy Life

33:15 Navigating Digital Distractions

36:37 Life-Altering Health Challenges

40:55 The Transformative Power of Daily Rituals

46:00 Redefining Success and Creativity

49:14 Building Resilience Through Creativity

55:46 Podcast Outro.mp4

Resources

Ashes to Films Website - https://ashestofilms.org

Tribeca Film Festival - https://tribecafilm.com

Writers Guild of America - https://www.wga.org

Director's Guild of America - https://www.dga.org

Sundance Film Festival - https://www.sundance.org

Guest links

Website - https://shilohstrong.com

Twitter - https://twitter.com/shilohstrong

Instagram - https://instagram.com/shilohstrong

In this conversation, we explore how her work as an ER doctor has shaped her understanding of stress, healing, and the mind-body connection—and how her own personal journey led her to look beyond conventional medicine alone.

Dr. Ashley shares how practices like stillness, breath, mindfulness, and surfing can help people reconnect with themselves, reduce stress, and begin creating real change without feeling overwhelmed.

We also talk about burnout in healthcare, the challenge of slowing down in a high-stress world, and why healing often starts with small, simple steps and a willingness to believe a different future is possible.

This episode is a grounded, thoughtful look at what it means to care for the body, calm the nervous system, and take ownership of your path toward wellness.

Takeaways

• Healing is not always about doing more. Often it starts by slowing down enough to listen.
• The mind-body connection plays a major role in stress, recovery, and long-term wellness.
• Small, consistent practices can create meaningful change without adding overwhelm.
• Surfing can be more than recreation—it can become part of a personal wellness practice.
• Healthcare providers need spaces and tools to process stress, avoid burnout, and stay connected to their own well-being.
• Belief in the possibility of change is often the first real step in a healing journey.
  
  Chapters

  00:00 Surfing as Medicine, Escape, and Awareness
  28:54 Making Surfing Part of a Wellness Practice
  34:32 Beginning the Healing Journey
  42:01 Mindfulness, Burnout, and Healing in Healthcare
  
  

In this episode, I break down a simple 3-phase BAM framework:

• Morning: set intention + lowest-friction start
• Midday: movement “snacks” to stay loose and strong
• Evening: decompress, reflect, and reset for tomorrow

If you want surf longevity without overcomplicating your routine, start here: define your BAMs and hit them daily.

Listen to more episodes here: https://surfstrongfit.com/podcast

Apply for Surf Strong For Life Exclusive Coaching: https://surfstrongfit.com/start

Key Topics Covered

• What “BAMs” are (and why they beat motivation)
• Choosing the day’s highest priority with less resistance
• Morning setup: intention + simple structure
• Midday movement: keeping joints and tissue “online”
• Evening reset: reflection, decompression, and continuity

Takeaways

• Consistency wins when motivation fades—BAMs give you a baseline you can always complete.
• Define non-negotiables that support surf longevity: movement + breath + mindset.
• Start your day by identifying one highest-priority target (then protect it).
• Use midday movement snacks to reduce stiffness and maintain readiness.
• End the day with a short reset: decompress, reflect, and tee up tomorrow.
• Keep BAMs small enough to succeed daily, then build upward from there.

Chapters / Timestamps

00:00 — What are BAMs (Bare @ss Minimums)
01:05 — Why life distraction kills consistency (and how BAMs fix it)
02:58 — Morning Phase: intention + lowest-friction start
04:20 — Picking the day’s highest priority (simple filter)
05:52 — Midday Phase: movement snacks to stay surf-ready
07:30 — Examples of quick movement / mobility check-ins
09:40 — Using breath + mindfulness to shift state fast
12:09 — Evening Phase: decompress, reflect, reset
13:30 — How to stay adaptable without losing the routine
14:20 — Simple challenge: define your BAMs and do them tomorrow

He explains why consistency with small habits matters more than occasional long sessions, and how breathing techniques can improve control and recovery—especially under stress.

You’ll get a simple framework of mobility exercises and activation work to support shoulder stability, reduce flare-ups, and strengthen injury prevention habits that fit into real life.

The goal: better sessions now, and long-term shoulder health for surfing longevity.

Takeaways

• Consistency in the small things really matter.
• Focus on those small things and taking action.
• Building good habits is crucial for recovery.
• Breath improves everything, especially during stress.
• Don't rush through exercises; take your time.
• Focus on five minutes of practice to build consistency.
• No pain, no gain is counterintuitive to long-term health.
• Warm-up is essential to prevent shoulder injuries.
• Check in with your body before surfing to avoid discomfort.
• Put the time in now to reduce pain and discomfort.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Shoulder Prep and Recovery

05:04 Building Consistent Habits for Shoulder Health

14:55 Shoulder-Specific Exercises and Techniques

20:50 Conclusion and Long-Term Strategies for Surfing

Episode Overview

If you want to surf stronger, longer, and with a calmer mind, it starts with something you are doing all day anyway: breathing.

In this episode of The Surf Strong Show, coach Greg Finch breaks down how breath impacts your surfing, your recovery, and your day-to-day stress levels. He explains why most modern breathing habits quietly work against performance, and shares simple, practical breath techniques you can plug into your routines in and out of the water.

You will learn how to use breath to boost paddle endurance, calm your nervous system after heavy efforts, and stay present in the lineup when conditions or crowds start to spike your stress. Greg also explores how combining good posture, mindful breathing, and small daily “micro practices” can turn your sessions into repeatable training for both body and mind.

“Breath is powerful on so many levels.”

What You’ll Learn

• Why breath is one of the most underrated performance tools in surfing
• How to weave breath techniques into your daily routines to improve recovery
• The role of posture and alignment in effective breathing
• How mindfulness and breath work help manage stress, anxiety, and overwhelm
• Ways to practice breath in and out of the water so it shows up when you need it most
• How to use breath to stay calm under pressure in challenging surf or life moments
• Simple ways to extend your connection to the ocean with post-surf breathing rituals

“Stay present, feel the wind and sand.”

Episode Highlights

• The Power of Breath (00:00)
  Why breath is central to surf performance, focus, and long-term surf longevity.
• Modern Breathing Habits and Their Impact (04:24)
  How our daily lifestyle quietly trains shallow, inefficient breathing and what to do instead.
• Practical Breathing Techniques for Surfers (14:09)
  Simple, repeatable exercises you can use before, during, and after your sessions.
• Connecting Breath with Surfing (14:31)
  How to link breath to paddling, positioning, and staying composed in critical moments.
• Post-Surf Breath Practices (28:28)
  Ways to cool down, recover faster, and carry that ocean calm into the rest of your day.

“Extend out the positive of the surf.”

Take This Into Your Next Session

Every paddle out is a chance to practice. Choose one breath technique from this episode, set a reminder on your phone, and use it:

• Before you check the surf
• While you are sitting in the lineup
• After your session as you towel off and head back to your day

Your surf training is not just what happens in the gym or in big swell days. It is in how you breathe through all of it.

If you want more tools to build breath endurance, recovery, and mental focus for surfing, make sure you grab Greg’s Surf Breath Checklist and keep training your breath to Surf Strong For Life.

Surf Strong Show Express with Greg Finch

Most surfers think they need a “perfect” 2-hour morning routine to level up their surfing. In this Surf Strong Show Express episode, Greg Finch makes the case for something way more realistic—and way more effective: 10–20 focused minutes of breath and movement that keep you surf-ready for life.

Greg breaks down how to start your day in a way that actually supports your surfing, instead of just checking another box on a self-help checklist. You’ll hear why surfing is such a high-demand activity on your body and nervous system, and how a few simple micro habits can keep your movement, breath, and mobility tuned so you can keep paddling out for decades.

You’ll also learn why your brain secretly wants you to stay on the couch, how to work with that resistance instead of fighting it, and why “First breath, not first screen” is one of the most powerful performance cues you can use—both in and out of the water.

In this episode, we get into:

• Why routines are overhyped—and how to swap “perfect routine” pressure for simple, repeatable micro habits.
• The true demands of surfing on your movement, breath, and mobility—and what it really takes to maintain them as you age.
• “First breath, not first screen” – a simple morning reset that downshifts your nervous system and sets the tone for your whole day.
• A go-to breath pattern (4-second inhale, 6–8 second exhale) you can use in bed, in the lineup, in the car, or in the grocery store line.
• A quick Surf Strong Primer you can do in 5–10 minutes:
  • Gentle spine + hip wake-up (cat–cow, hip circles, thoracic rotation)
  • Deep squat holds to check in on your lower body
  • Push-up / pop-up variations that don’t wreck your shoulders
  • Dead bug / crawl-pattern core work that trains you to breathe under tension
• How tiny, consistent actions act like compounding interest for your surf fitness, resilience, and recovery.
• Why your “evolved mind” is wired to avoid effort—and how to design habits that sneak past that resistance.

Who this episode is for

This one’s especially for you if:

• You’re a surfer who wants to keep surfing hard into your 40s, 50s, 60s and beyond
• You feel stiff, tight, or beat-up in the mornings after a couple days of surf
• You keep meaning to start a morning routine but get overwhelmed or fall off quickly
• You want simple, doable structure—not another perfectionist plan you’ll abandon next week

Big idea to take with you

You don’t need a flawless two-hour routine.
You need 10–20 intentional minutes that:

• Start with breath, not screens
• Wake up your hips, spine, and shoulders
• Remind your brain, “Hey, we’re surfers—we stay ready.”

Come back to your breath. Come back to the fundamentals. Build from there.

If you’d like help turning this into a tailored plan for your body, your schedule, and your surf goals, I’d love to help you map it out. If you're open to it, we could jump on a quick call this week, find out exactly where you are, what you want to achieve in your surfing, and lay out a plan to get you there.

Bianca shares how she structures her big-wave season between Mavericks and Hawaii, how she trains in the off-season, and why “just outside your comfort zone” is the sweet spot for growth in both surfing and life. She breaks down her daily surf-prep ritual—from warm salt water and massage gun routines to bands, foam rolling, and underwater weight training—and explains how small, consistent habits keep her ready for XXL swells.

They dive into the mental side of big-wave surfing: managing fear, dealing with FOMO, recovering from burnout, and learning to pace yourself instead of going full throttle all the time. Bianca talks about balancing obsession with responsibility, rebuilding stoke, and playing the true long game of surf longevity.

If you care about surfing strong for life—through movement, breath, mobility, and mindset—this conversation is a masterclass.

If it resonates, subscribe, share this episode with a surf buddy, and check out all episodes of the Surf Strong Show for more surf-longevity training and support.

Chapters / Timestamps

00:00 – Bianca’s Big-Wave Season: Mavericks, Hawaii & Warm Water
02:07 – Inside the Culture of Big-Wave Surfing
04:36 – Comfort Zones, Fear & the First 6-Inch Wave at Doheny
07:30 – Small Days, Reps & Staying Ready Between Swells
10:24 – Surfing as Mental Health, Ritual & Saying “Yes”
12:59 – Morning Routine: Warm Salt Water, Massage Gun & Paddle Prep
18:58 – Consistency, Micro-Habits & Recovery Done Right
21:49 – Pacing, Tapering & Listening to Your Body at 40+
24:37 – Burnout, Balance & Rediscovering Stoke for the Long Game
32:18 – Inside the Eddie Aikau: Honor, Preparation & XXL Waimea Chaos

Takeaways

• Marcelo started surfing at a young age, influenced by his father's passion.
• His desire to improve led him to seek knowledge and tools for better performance.
• Growing up away from the beach fueled his passion for surfing.
• He developed a unique training program for himself without formal coaching.
• Marcelo's ADHD taught him focus and visualization techniques beneficial for surfing.
• He founded the Christian Surfers chapter in El Salvador to share positivity.
• Injuries led him to study hotel management, which shaped his future.
• Puro Surf was born from his thesis project, combining hospitality and surfing.
• Marcelo emphasizes the importance of community and mentorship in surfing.
• He believes in the power of sharing good energy and inspiring others.

Chapters

00:00 Marcelo's Surfing Journey Begins

04:26 The Transition to Coaching and Community Building

09:46 Injury and Education: A New Perspective

14:00 Resilience and Overcoming Challenges

18:58 The Surf Culture of El Salvador

22:24 Balancing Tradition and Industry Growth

27:22 The Mission of Puro Surf

31:39 Creating the Puro Surf Experience

34:41 Impacting Local Communities through Surfing

37:33 The Olympic Journey and Its Significance

42:58 The Vision Behind Puro Surf

47:17 The Journey of Building Puro Surf

55:47 Future Opportunities for Puro Surf

April emphasizes the importance of a holistic approach to training and the need for injury prevention in surfing. She also reflects on her time in Australia, working closely with athletes and coaches, and her aspirations for the future.

Surf Strong Show

Website

Instagram

Facebook

April on Facebook

April on Instagram

Chapters

00:00 Growing Up by the Ocean

03:05 Transitioning to College Life

06:01 Exploring Kinesiology and Lifeguarding

08:55 Researching Big Wave Surfers

11:07 Journey to Graduate Studies

13:56 Lifeguarding at Ocean Beach

16:49 Training and Team Dynamics

19:50 Experiences at Kelly Slater's Wave Park

22:20 The Unique Environment of Wave Parks

27:10 The Dynamics of Surfing and Performance Improvement

32:26 Research and Education in Surfing

36:34 Navigating the PhD Journey

43:05 Cultural Insights: Surfing in Australia

48:11 Transitioning to a New Environment

51:22 Embedded Research and Athlete Support

55:19 Injury Prevention and Strength Training for Athletes

57:32 Research Focus: Preparing Female Athletes for the Olympics

01:01:23 Developing Effective Interventions for Skill Improvement

01:05:00 Challenges in Training Surfers vs. Swimmers

01:07:23 Key Findings on Stroke Dynamics and Injury Prevention

01:13:53 Community and Future Directions in Research

01:22:07 Podcast Outro.mp4

“My name is Pepa, and I am an Australian born, Central America based Artist, Surfer and Traveler.

I have over 20 years of international experience creating digital and analog art. 

My artwork is both inspired by, and a result of, my nomadic surfer lifestyle. 

I have chosen a life less ordinary in pursuit of my creative passion and I want to inspire others to curate a life that is a work of art.

My Art and my Life is a constant and evolving exploration of travel, culture, nature, design, surfing, photography, tarot, colour, textures, textiles, taoism, and all things tropical.

I have painted 302 Murals in 8 countries, and I love to combine traditional analog art with digital techniques, and in doing so have created my unique style.”

We have a fun conversation of her growing up on the Gold Coast of Australia, moving to California in her early 20’s to advance a career in graphic arts, her decision to move to Costa Rica full time after 8 years in California, and how that opened the doors to becoming the mural artist and nomadic creative that she is today.

They explore the concept of CO2 tolerance versus air hunger and the psychological impact of breath control.

Reis also shares insights on his Our Breath Collective community and how they integrate breath practices into various settings, including professional sports.

This episode provides valuable tips for anyone looking to understand and optimize their breathing for better performance and quality of life. 00:00 Introduction to the Surf Strong Show 00:09 Meet Reis Peluso: Breath Coach and Educator 01:05 The Importance of Breath Awareness 02:25 Practical Applications of Breath Techniques 03:36 The Role of Curiosity in Breath Work 05:11 Adapting Breath Techniques to Daily Life 09:56 Mechanisms for Breath Awareness 17:53 Understanding Breath vs. Respiration 30:34 The Breath Collective: Community and Practice 34:54 Breath Work with Professional Athletes 39:58 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

• The amazing and crazy lineup at the Huntington Beach Pier
• His work helping children with Cystic Fibrosis through the Mauli Ola Foundation
• His path through early mistakes and struggles to a more present and positive life with his wife and children
• How losing his brother to alcoholism has greatly shaped his own choices in life
• How his Coaching By Ted surf instruction is a great source of joy for him

Listen to Episode 005 of The Surf Strong Show with Teddy Navarro

In This Episode:  

3:00 - How the ocean humbles and helps check your ego 

8:00 Huntington Beach Pier surfing scene 12:00 You can't fast forward your surfing 

14:00 Never stop learning 

18:00 How Teddy gets his amazing first person barrel shots 

26:10 Just paddle out no excuses 

30:00 Starting Ji Jitsu and his weekly movement plan 

37:22 How losing his brother to alcoholism has profoundly shaped his life 

49:00 Mauli Ola Foundation 

1:02:00 Coaching With Ted

• Learning to surf at Leo Carrillo beach and how it still feels like her spiritual home
• What is different and the same about paddling out today and the first time
• Her time as the Executive Director of The California Surf Museum in Oceanside
• Starting The Traveler Surf Club and what's in store for the future

Some of the topics I cover are:

1. How to start improving a shoulder that is showing weakness and discomfort and starting to negatively affect their surfing.
2. What my personal Surf Fit Program looks like
3. 3. What approach I take with my personal nutrition plan and those of my clients

Full show notes can be found at:

https://surfstrongfit.com/podcast

He also helps mere mortals like us stay strong in the Ocean. Join us as we discuss his morning routine, pre and post surf prep, most gifted books, and his favorite wave in the world.

Mark introduces his Ki Release technique. This therapy is something that he has been pioneering with his patients over the last few years. It has had a profound impact on him and the path of his therapies.

Learn what Ki Release is and how it is delivering amazing results to his patients.

Brian also highlights the significance of walking as a foundational exercise and shares his personal experience with overcoming fear and trauma. Overall, the conversation explores the intersection of breath, fear, and performance.

Brian and Greg discuss the importance of prioritizing self-care and personal growth. They explore the concept of reordering priorities and letting go of non-essential tasks.

Brian shares his experience of investing in himself and overcoming codependency. They also discuss the dangers of multitasking and hyperconnectivity in today's society.

The conversation delves into the impact of childhood experiences on adult behavior and the importance of breathing and self-reflection. Brian shares his insights on the power of walking and connecting with nature.

They also touch on Brian's experience working with Tim Ferriss and Laird Hamilton.

Finally, they discuss the benefits and misconceptions of heat and cold therapy, as well as Brian's training block and approach to competitions.

Scott also talks about the importance of having a mindset that allows for financial freedom and the ability to make choices. He shares his experiences of traveling in Southeast Asia and how it influenced his perspective on wealth and financial security.

Scott emphasizes the importance of being present and embracing the unpredictability of photography and surfing.

We chat about his time as a Professional Surfer, what he did then and does now to prepare for big wave conditions that demand so much physical and emotional focus, and what it was like being around and learning from the likes of Jerry Lopez, The Ho brothers, Mark Foo, and Johnny Boy Gomes.

Here's a bio of Corky from his bluemango website:

The greatest competitor of California’s Golden Age and surfing’s first real pro was five-time US Surfing Champion Corky Carroll.

Corky was right in the middle of much in surfing. Surfing in front of his family's beach house, he wanted a more durable swim trunk. He approached nearby Katin Surf Shop with his request. Nancy and Walter Katin got to work and created an industry.
As a student at Huntington Beach High School, Carroll took surf safaris with good friends such as Mark Martinson, Robert August, Mickey Munoz, Billy Hamilton and Mike Doyle. When Endless Summer was released, he travelled promoting the film.

Working for Hobie Surfboards, Corky found his niche interacting with the customers instead of in the back of the shop. In the water, Corky was so promising that Hobie Alter decided to sponsor him, paying Carroll to use and promote Hobie Surfboards.
During the mid-’60s noseriding era, he was as good as anyone. He was a champion paddler with keen wave judgment and a competitive spirit that usually paid off with high-scoring performances. In 1968, he won the Surfer Poll Award as the best surfer in the world. Few disagreed. “Of everything I achieved in my surfing career, winning the Surfer Poll meant the most to me,” Carroll said. “To be named the best by the people was the greatest honor. It is one of the only trophies that I kept for my kids.”
Corky was also at the forefront of the short board evolution, making the transition from long boarding that others could not. His Mini Model was the first production shortboard in America, and his Deadly Flying Glove model furthered the evolution.
Carroll was a great contest surfer, but he was also a gutsy big-wave rider. He surfed Waimea and huge Pipeline and he was in the water at Makaha on the day Greg Noll paddled into the largest wave ever ridden in 1969, pre tow. “I only rode one wave though,” Carroll said. “It was a monster, at least 300 feet as I saw it. I also got caught inside three times that day and spent hours swimming in.”
Carroll was one of the first to convert to twin fins in 1971 and was featured in a number of surf films in the ’60s and ’70s, including MacGillivray-Freeman’s Five Summer Stories.
When competitive surfing lost some of its luster in the early ’70s, Corky Carroll reached into his grab bag of talent and diversified into an array of livelihoods. He taught himself to play the guitar and was soon in the studio producing albums of original music. He wrote several books, spent 10 years as advertising director of Surfer magazine, six years as a tennis pro and a couple of years as a ski instructor. All the while, Carroll never relinquished the surf scene. An inductee into the Surfing Hall of Fame, he now operates his surf school in Costa Rica and is a fabulous surf columnist.

He also talks about his circuit workouts, which include a mix of CrossFit and balance work. Alo explains the difference between off-season and in-season training, with a focus on building muscle mass in the off-season and maintaining paddle muscles during the season.

He also discusses the mental and physical challenges of big wave surfing, the importance of decompressing after a big day, and the role of jiu-jitsu in his training and mindset.

Alo highlights the connection between surfing and the ocean, and the importance of staying connected to the ocean in his life. He also talks about his tow partnership with Luca Padua and the trust and communication required in that relationship.

Alo shares his experience of learning and surfing Mavericks, and the challenges and rewards of pursuing big wave surfing. In this conversation, Greg and Alo discusses the intricacies of big wave surfing and the mental and physical preparation required. He emphasizes the importance of understanding the variables involved in surfing, such as swell direction and wave size, and the constant learning process that comes with it.

Alo also highlights the lifelong pursuit of improving surfing skills and the need to remain focused and calm in challenging situations. He shares insights into the safety protocols and checklists followed before tackling big waves, as well as the importance of the Junior Lifeguard program in fostering a love for the ocean.

On this episode we discuss Nature of Success, Kelee Meditation, personal performance, and the joy of building programs with friends that help others succeed.

The conversation emphasizes the healing power of surfing, exploring how it fosters connection, personal challenge, and emotional growth. Jason reflects on the unique relationship with the ocean and the future of surf therapy in helping veterans navigate their post-military lives.

Links

Jason on Facebook

Operation Healing Forces

Information on contributing to future OHF Retreats

Takeaways

Jason transitioned from academia to the military seeking adventure.

Combat experience can lead to significant mental health challenges.

The transition from military to civilian life is often difficult.

Finding purpose after service is crucial for veterans.

Operation Healing Forces provides support through couple retreats.

Surfing serves as a powerful therapeutic tool for veterans.

The ocean offers a unique connection that aids in healing.

Surfing requires complete focus, helping to clear the mind.

Building community and relationships is essential for veterans post-service.

The future of surf therapy holds promise for veterans' healing journeys.

Chapters

00:00 From Academia to the Military: A New Path

05:05 The Impact of 9/11 on Military Careers

07:52 Transitioning from Combat to Civilian Life

14:37 Finding Purpose After Special Forces

23:22 Joining Operation Healing Forces

34:56 Creating Safe Spaces for Conversations

42:21 Personal Journeys: From Novice to Surfer

47:31 The Immersive Experience of Surfing

52:35 The Unique Challenges of Surfing

01:01:08 Future Visions for Surf Therapy Retreats

Sam also highlights the significance of compromise and conversation in addressing challenges within the surf community. He explores the role of surfing in community and activism, as well as the inclusivity of adaptive surfing.

Additionally, Sam discusses the potential of integrating music into surfing events and shares his personal journey in the world of surfing. The conversation explores the themes of following your passion, the intersection of geography and surfing. Being present and grateful, future goals and hopes for the surf community, and sustainability and balance.

This Surf Strong Show is a fun extension of that mission. I'm having a blast with these in depth conversations with true experts in the surf community, who have so much to provide, and are just giving back so much.

This is a first of a series of live podcast events that I attend to do. Each will have a focused topic with an intention to keep them as quick takes around 30 minutes and hopefully full of actionable steps to real problems amd issues we face as surfers.

We will often answer listener questions that you can submit before. Since it will be recorded as a live stream you can submit comments from our Facebook facebook.com/surfstrongfit and we may get to them right in that stream.

We Discuss:

• Learning to surf later in life
• How it has allowed her to face some of her fears
• Hypopressive Breathing Method and how it allows us to access the involuntary side of our nervous system and reflexively trigger more fully our core muscle activation
• We go through a great breathing tool that you can do anywhere

Links to what we discussed in the episode

• Dr. Angie Mueller Website
• Core Recovery Method
• Dr. Angie Mueller on Instagram

Most of his career was spent at the US Navy's Fleet numerical meteorology and oceanography Center in Monterey where he worked for 28 years and retired in 2011 as the Director.

Mike is also in front of the camera in the upcoming feature film a long road to Tao. Inspired by the book Tao of Surfing: Finding Depth at a Low Tide.

We talk about these, surf forecasting, and how he stays in the ocean in his 8th decade.

Greg and Emily also discuss the power of water and the importance of being present and connected to the environment. They touch on the challenges of attachment to outcomes and the need to focus on the process rather than the result.

Emily shares practical tips for staying present and detached from outcomes, including visualization and down-regulating the nervous system. In this conversation, Emily Hightower and Greg Finch discuss the importance of regulating the nervous system and the role of breath and movement in managing stress and trauma. They emphasize the need to shift our perspective on stress and view it as an evolutionary tool rather than something to be avoided. They also highlight the power of reconnecting with nature and engaging in activities like surfing to improve overall well-being.

Emily and Greg share their experiences working with first responders and military personnel and how these individuals can benefit from breathwork and movement practices. They also introduce their company, Shift, which focuses on helping individuals understand and interact with their stress physiology to optimize healing and performance.

Continuing now into his fifty's what he does every day to keep himself surf ready and performing at a high level. It was really great to hear the routines that he does, what he brings, his approach and how we all can benefit from learning from some of those things and then applying them to our own routines.

We also discuss The Nature of Success events he's doing with Matt Griggs. How Keele meditation has positively influenced his life and really was kind of a pivot point for him in his life. 

We want to invite you to listen and watch live. We will have it streaming on our:

Facebook page - https://facebook.com/surfstrongfit

Surf Strong Fit Community Facebook group - https://www.facebook.com/groups/surfstrongfit

Surf Strong Fit YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6yJY28ibPxRq_JfXZLK7bQ

Join us, ask questions and interact. It will make the conversation more interesting and dynamic.  We want to answer your questions and bring you the content you want.

Together let’s push our surfing forward. So stoked to have you here and I look forward to talking to you soon.

Dr. Brown currently serves as the Co-Medical Director for the World Surf League, a Performance Expert for both the US Olympic Surf Team and RedBull High Performance athletes. As well as working with Ripcurl and NEUX  to create cutting edge technologies.

We talk about being the original Medical Director of the first professional Beach Volleyball Association, the AVP In the early 80s and how that experience combined with his own time as a college football, pro beach volleyball, and surf athlete was the start of a lifelong pursuit to change the recurring injury, rehab, recovery and reinjury cycle he was seeing over and over again amongst the athletes.

Dr. Brown revolutionized the world of sports taping and soft tissue treatment with his innovative Specific Proprioceptive Response Technique. You may know it from the 2008 Beijing Olympics, when professional beach volleyball player Kerri Walsh brought SPRT to the world stage when she won a gold medal with Misty May-Treanor wearing a version of SPRT for an injured shoulder.

We discuss his 5 progression pillars of fitness, how what you Eat, Think, Do is what you become, and the next event of his Surf Movement Masterclass series.

Dr. Brown is responsible for influencing, training, and supporting countless athletes and the sports professionals that work with them. He is a personal mentor and I am honored to have him on the show.

Peter has trained the best of the best — Lance Armstrong, pro surfers Kelly Slater, Lakey Peterson, and Major League Baseball stars  Giancarlo Stanton and Justin Verlander to name just a few.

His personal ultra endurance achievements  include 3 time winner of the “World’s Toughest Triathlon”, current record holder for the Catalina 50 Mile Ultra Marathon, and numerous Hawaii Ironman Triathlons.

We discuss his work ethic, how it  helped make him successful and why it’s also what makes a balanced life difficult.

• How working with Lance Armstrong was like a PHD in aerobic endurance training.
• Peter lays out a plan to get you ready to get everything out of your next surf trip.
• Here’s our conversation with Peter Park

In this conversation, Kate Clements shares her journey of personal growth, self-discovery, and the creation of her travel company, Room to Roam. She discusses the healing power of surfing and ocean therapy, particularly in the context of retreats for veterans. The conversation highlights the importance of community, connection, and the joy of learning to surf later in life, emphasizing that it's never too late to embrace new challenges and experiences.

Takeaways

- Reconnecting with home can lead to personal growth.

- Traveling and experiencing new cultures enriches life.

- Creating Room to Roam was a leap of faith.

- Surfing serves as a powerful form of therapy.

- Retreats for veterans provide meaningful connections.

- Learning to surf later in life is empowering.

- The ocean offers a unique perspective on life.

- Community support enhances personal wellness journeys.

- Embracing challenges leads to joy and fulfillment.

Connection with nature is vital for mental health.

Chapters

00:00 Reconnecting with Roots

06:37 Journey of Self-Discovery

12:34 Creating a Life of Purpose

18:25 Empowering Others through Surf Therapy

29:37 Choosing the Right Path

31:05 The Humbling Experience of Learning to Surf

36:11 Surfing as a Metaphor for Life

41:50 The Power of Presence in Surfing

48:11 The Illusion of Control in Surfing

49:09 Building Community Through Surfing

51:03 Focusing on Meaningful Connections

57:40 Supporting Veterans and Strengthening Bonds

59:26 Podcast Outro.mp4